FAQs

Yes, you can buy building materials online at Saniso, such as grouts, adhesives and sealants, plaster, building boards and installation materials.

1. Choose your products in the Building Materials category.
2. Add the product to your cart, or buy it straight away.
3. Check your cart, go to checkout and complete your order.

Larger or heavy items are delivered by special transport or by our own delivery service. You can also collect your order free of charge from our showroom in Zwaag.

This video of almost two minutes shows you how to buy building materials online from Saniso.

💡 Tip: Need large quantities for a project? Put everything in a project list and request a project quote.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Knauf Goldband E plaster 25 kg.

➡️ Next step: Click here to browse our building materials.

🔗 See also: What products does Saniso sell? (Products section) and How do I request a quote for several products or a large project? (Business section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Ordering building materials online and have a question about your order? Daan is happy to help.

For a product marked 'Contact for Price', you request a quote directly on the product page with the 'Request Quote' button.

1. Open the product page.
2. Click 'Request Quote'. A 'Request Quote for' window opens with the name of the product.
3. Enter your name, email address and the quantity you need. Your phone number is optional.
4. Say how urgent your request is and add any additional requirements or questions.
5. Click 'Send Quote Request'.

This quote is for one product. Need a quote for several products at once, for example for a project? Add them to a project list and submit it as a quote request.

💡 Tip: Enter the quantity you need and use the additional requirements to tell us what you will use the product for. That helps us give you a more targeted answer.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Hydromette H35.

➡️ Next step: Click here to find your product in the webshop.

🔗 See also: How do I request a quote for several products or a large project? (Business section) and How can I see whether a product is in stock? (Products section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Requesting a quote for a product? Anna is happy to help.

Forgotten your password? Use 'Forgot password?' on the login page to create a new one yourself in a few steps.

1. Go to the login page of your Saniso account.
2. Click 'Forgot password?'. Or go straight to reset your password.
3. Enter the email address linked to your account.
4. Click 'Send Password Reset Link'.
5. Open the email we send you, click the link and choose a new password.

After that, log in again with your email address or phone number and your new password.

Don't have an account yet? Create a customer account.

Still stuck? Let us know via live chat or our contact form and we will help you out.

💡 Tip: You can log in with your email address or your phone number. Handy if you can't remember which email address you used.

➡️ Next step: Click here to request a new password.

🔗 See also: I can't log in. What can I do? (Account section) and How do I change my password? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Forgotten your password and can't reset it? Daan is happy to help you personally.

You will find your orders and account details in 'My account': log in at saniso.nl and everything is in one place.

Log in on the login page with your email address or phone number and your password. Then open 'My account'. There you will find:

• your orders;
• your project lists;
• your appointments;
• your returns;
• your details, such as your address and, for businesses, your company and VAT details.

You also create project lists from your account. This is not possible as a guest.

Don't have an account yet? Register as a customer with your name, email address, phone number and a password. Forgotten your password? Request a new one.

💡 Tip: Just want to see where your parcel is? You can do that without logging in on the order tracking page, using your order number and email address.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in and open 'My account'.

🔗 See also: How do I change my name, email address or phone number? (Account section) and How do I get an invoice for my order? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Can't find your orders or account details in 'My account'? Daan will be happy to show you the way personally.

You can sign up for the Saniso newsletter at the bottom of every page of our website, under 'Newsletter'.

1. Scroll to the bottom of any page.
2. Enter your email address under 'Newsletter'.
3. Click the subscribe button.

Our newsletter brings you updates on promotions and coupons. We don't send spam.

This short video of under a minute shows you how to sign up for our newsletter.

💡 Tip: You can withdraw your consent for the newsletter at any time. Read more in our privacy policy.

➡️ Next step: Click here to sign up via the newsletter form at the bottom of the page.

🔗 See also: How do I get a discount code? (Discount codes & vouchers section) and How can I contact Saniso? (Contact section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Trouble signing up for or unsubscribing from the newsletter? Daan is happy to help.

You log in on the saniso.nl login page with your email address or phone number and your password.

1. Go to the login page, or click 'Login' at the top of the website.
2. Enter your email address or phone number under 'Email or phone'.
3. Enter your password.
4. Tick 'Remember me' if you want to stay logged in on this device.
5. Click 'Login'.

You can then open your orders, project lists and appointments via 'My account'.

Don't have an account yet? Click 'Register now' or go straight to registration. Forgotten your password? Create a new one.

💡 Tip: Only tick 'Remember me' on your own computer or phone, never on a shared device.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in to your customer account.

🔗 See also: I can't log in. What can I do? (Account section) and I've forgotten my password. What should I do? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Can't log in to your Saniso account? Daan is happy to help you personally.

Can't log in? First check your email address or phone number and your password; if you have forgotten your password, you can create a new one yourself.

1. Use the email address or phone number you registered with.
2. Passwords are case-sensitive, so check that Caps Lock is off.
3. Forgotten your password? Request a new one using the email address linked to your account. We will then send you an email with a link.
4. No email? Check your spam folder too, and make sure you entered the right email address.
5. Never created an account? Register first.

Still no luck? Let us know via live chat or our contact form and we will help you out.

💡 Tip: Can't log in with your email address? Try your phone number instead, or the other way round. Both work on the login page.

➡️ Next step: Click here to request a new password.

🔗 See also: I've forgotten my password. What should I do? (Account section) and I can't register because my email address is already in use. What now? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Still unable to log in? Daan is happy to help you personally.

You can change your password yourself in 'My account', under change password.

1. Log in to your customer account.
2. In 'My account', go to change password.
3. Enter your current password.
4. Choose a new password and enter it again to confirm.
5. Save your changes.

Can't remember your current password? Use 'Forgot password?' to create a new one.

💡 Tip: Choose a password you don't use anywhere else, with a mix of letters, numbers and symbols.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in and change your password.

🔗 See also: I've forgotten my password. What should I do? (Account section) and How do I keep my account secure, and how do I log out? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Having trouble changing your password in 'My account'? Daan is happy to help.

You can change your name and phone number yourself in 'My account', under your account details.

1. Log in to your customer account.
2. In 'My account', go to your account details.
3. Update your details.
4. Save your changes.

Want to change your email address and can't do it yourself? Contact us via our contact form and we will help you out.

You change your delivery address separately, under your addresses.

💡 Tip: Ordering for your business? Also enter your company name, address and VAT number in your account. Your account is where you manage your company details, VAT details and orders.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in and edit your account details.

🔗 See also: How do I add or change an address? (Account section) and Where can I find my orders and account details? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Stuck updating your details in 'My account'? Daan is happy to help.

You manage your addresses in 'My account', under your addresses: that is where you add a new address or change an existing one.

1. Log in to your customer account.
2. In 'My account', go to your addresses.
3. Add a new address, or select an existing one to change it.
4. Fill in the full address and save it.

When you next order, choose the address your order should go to at checkout.

Please note: changing an address in your account does not change the address of an order you have already placed. Is the delivery address of a current order wrong? Contact us as soon as possible via our contact form.

💡 Tip: Often have orders delivered to different addresses, such as your home and a building site? Save them all, so you can quickly pick the right one at checkout.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in and manage your addresses.

🔗 See also: How do I change my name, email address or phone number? (Account section) and Where can I find my orders and account details? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Adding or changing an address in your account? Daan is happy to help.

You can request an invoice for your order by emailing Daan with your order number; you can see your orders and their details in 'My account'.

1. Log in to your customer account.
2. In 'My account', go to your orders and open the order. There you can see the products, the delivery address, the status and the order number.
3. Send an email to [email protected] with the subject 'Factuur' (Dutch for invoice).
4. Include the order number in your email.

Invoices are not available in 'My account', so you always request them by email.

💡 Tip: Keep your invoice safe: it serves as proof of purchase, for example for a warranty claim or a return.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in and open your orders.

🔗 See also: Where can I find my orders and account details? (Account section) and How does payment work in the webshop? (Payment section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about your order or invoice? Daan is happy to help.

You can't delete your Saniso account yourself: email a request to Daan from the email address linked to your account.

1. Send an email to [email protected] with the subject 'Account verwijderen' (Dutch for delete account).
2. Send it from the email address you registered with at Saniso.
3. We will process your request and confirm it to you.

Once your account has been deleted, you can no longer log in and you will no longer see your orders, project lists and appointments in 'My account'. Data we are required to keep, such as administrative records for tax purposes, is kept for as long as necessary.

💡 Tip: Just want to stop receiving our newsletter or offers? You don't need to delete your account for that: you can withdraw your consent at any time.

➡️ Next step: Click here to read how we handle your personal data.

🔗 See also: How do I keep my account secure, and how do I log out? (Account section) and How do I change my name, email address or phone number? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Want to delete your account, or have questions about your data? Daan is happy to help you personally.

Keep your account secure with a strong password that you only use for Saniso, and log out when you use a shared device.

• Strong password: long, with letters, numbers and symbols, and different from the ones you use on other websites.
• Don't share your password with anyone.
• 'Remember me': only tick this on your own computer or phone.
• Logging out: choose log out in 'My account'. Always do this on a shared or public computer.
• Something doesn't feel right? Change your password straight away.

Saniso protects your data with measures such as an encrypted connection (SSL) and password protection. Read more in our privacy policy.

💡 Tip: Not sure whether an email really comes from Saniso? Don't click the link; go to saniso.nl yourself and log in there.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in and change your password.

🔗 See also: How do I change my password? (Account section) and How do I delete my account? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about the security of your Saniso account? Daan is happy to help you personally.

Seeing a message that your email address or phone number is already in use when you register? Then you most likely already have an account: log in, or create a new password.

1. Go to the login page and log in with that email address or phone number.
2. Forgotten the password? Request a new one.
3. Open the email we send you, click the link and choose a new password.

Would you still like a separate account, for example for your business? Then register with a different email address and phone number.

💡 Tip: Can't remember which email address you registered with? Search your mailbox for earlier emails from Saniso.

➡️ Next step: Click here to create a new password.

🔗 See also: I've forgotten my password. What should I do? (Account section) and I can't log in. What can I do? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Can't register because your email address is already in use? Daan is happy to help you personally.

You always create and keep a project list in your customer account, never as a guest; that way your products and your quote request are stored safely in one place.

• Saved: your project list stays in your account, ready for next time.
• Always to hand: with the same account you see your project lists on your computer and on your phone.
• Several projects: you create a separate project list for each project.
• Request a quote: you request a project quote straight from your project list.

1. Create a customer account or log in.
2. Go to your project lists and create a new project list.
3. Add products with 'Add to project list' on the product page.
4. Request a project quote from your project list.

This short video of about a minute and a half shows you step by step how to create a project list.

💡 Tip: Create a separate project list for each project, room or building phase, such as bathroom, kitchen and finishing. That keeps your quotes clear.

➡️ Next step: Click here to create an account and start your project list.

🔗 See also: What is a project list? (Project lists section) and How do I create a project list and request a project quote? (Project lists section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Starting a project list and have questions about your account? Anna will be happy to explain it to you personally.

Yes. As a business, you create a customer account and enter your company details in it; if you are a trade business, you can also apply for a wholesale account.

• Customer account with company details: register and enter your company name, address and VAT number in your account. Your account is where you manage your company details, VAT details and orders.
• Wholesale account: apply via Wholesale Registration, giving details such as your company name, business type and expected order volume. We will review your application and then get back to you. A wholesale account gives you a discount on selected products, on product categories or across the entire website; our in-house sales team sets this discount for each account individually.
• Company outside the Netherlands: you may be eligible for 0% VAT. Read more about VAT exemption.

This short video of under a minute shows you how to register as a wholesale customer with Saniso.

💡 Tip: Working on a larger project? Put all the products on a project list and request a project quote.

➡️ Next step: Click here to apply for your wholesale account.

🔗 See also: How do I apply for a wholesale account? (Business section) and What is the difference between a discount code, loyalty points and a wholesale discount? (Discount codes & vouchers section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for a business or wholesale account? Anna is happy to discuss the options with you.

A project list is your own shortlist on saniso.nl: you gather all the products for your project in it and request a project quote for everything at once.

Ideal for a new bathroom, a renovation, an interior or a larger construction project. This is how it works:

1. You gather all the products for your project in one clear overview.
2. Once your selection is complete, you submit the list as a quote request.
3. Our team reviews it and sends you a structured proposal, including project pricing, additional services or a tailored solution where relevant.

Find out more on our project request page.

This short video of about a minute and a half shows you step by step how to create a project list, for example for your new bathroom or renovation.

💡 Tip: Products in the webshop have an 'Add to project list' button, so you can build your list while you browse.

➡️ Next step: Click here to create an account and start your project list.

🔗 See also: How do I create a project list and request a project quote? (Project lists section) and Why do I need an account for a project list? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Planning your bathroom or renovation with a project list? Anna will be happy to explain it to you personally.

No, project lists are always created from your customer account, so they are not available to guests.

1. Don't have an account yet? Register as a customer.
2. Already have one? Log in.
3. You will then find your project list.

A project list starts with a customer account. This short video of just over a minute shows you how to create one.

💡 Tip: To create a customer account, you only need your full name, email address, phone number and a password.

➡️ Next step: Click here to create a customer account and start your project list.

🔗 See also: Why do I need an account for a project list? (Account section) and How do I create a project list and request a project quote? (Project lists section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Can't create a project list? Anna is happy to help you personally.

To request a project quote, create a project list from your customer account, add products to it and submit the list as a quote request.

It takes four steps:

1. Create a new project list from your customer account and give your project a recognisable name.
2. Enter the billing address and the other project details. The project address helps us take location, delivery and any extra services into account.
3. Add products while you browse the webshop by clicking 'Add to project list' on a product.
4. Is your selection complete? Submit the project list as a quote request.

Our team will then come back to you with a proposal.

Video 1: this short video of about a minute and a half shows you how to create and fill a project list.

Video 2: this short video of under a minute shows you how to submit your project list as a project request.

💡 Tip: Give each project its own recognisable name, such as 'Upstairs bathroom'. That makes it easy to keep your project lists apart.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in and start your project list.

🔗 See also: How do I request a quote for several products or a large project? (Business section) and What is a project list? (Project lists section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Stuck on a step of your project quote request? Anna will be happy to walk you through it personally.

To apply for a wholesale account, use the 'Wholesale Registration' form on saniso.nl; we will review your application and then get back to you.

1. Go to Wholesale Registration.
2. Enter your full legal name (as in your company documents), email address, company name and phone number. Your VAT number is optional.
3. Choose your business type and enter your expected monthly or quarterly order volume.
4. Add any information that helps us review your application under the additional notes, then click 'Submit Application'.

We will review your application and then get back to you.

What's in it for you? A wholesale account gives you a discount on selected products, on product categories or across the entire website. Our in-house sales team sets this discount for each account individually, and we will let you know which discount applies to you.

This short video of under a minute shows you how to register as a wholesale customer with Saniso.

💡 Tip: Give a realistic estimate of your expected order volume and briefly describe your business and projects in the notes. That helps us review your application.

➡️ Next step: Click here to apply for your wholesale account.

🔗 See also: Can I get a business account? (Account section) and What is the difference between a discount code, loyalty points and a wholesale discount? (Discount codes & vouchers section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about applying for a wholesale account? Anna will be happy to explain it to you personally.

Yes, if your company is based outside the Netherlands, you may be eligible for 0% VAT: enter your VAT registration number in your customer account and we will verify your details.

1. Register or log in to your customer account.
2. Enter your company name, address and VAT registration number in your account, fully and correctly.
3. At checkout, the correct VAT rate is then calculated automatically.
4. We verify your details and may ask for additional documents. Once approved, your account is verified and 0% VAT applies to eligible purchases.

Full details are available on our VAT exemption page.

This video of almost two minutes shows you step by step how to apply for VAT exemption, so your business outside the Netherlands may qualify for 0% VAT.

💡 Tip: Keep your company documents to hand. We sometimes ask for additional documents when we verify your details.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in and enter your VAT details.

🔗 See also: Do your prices include VAT? (Payment section) and How do I apply for a wholesale account? (Business section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Ordering at 0% VAT from outside the Netherlands? Anna will be happy to explain it to you personally.

Yes, Saniso offers products with EPDs and ecolabels, works with B Corp-certified manufacturers and has sustainable, water-saving product options.

• EPDs and ecolabels: transparent information about the full life cycle of a product.
• Certifications: this supports ESG goals and certifications such as BREEAM and LEED.
• Water-saving: sustainable product options that save water.

Read more on our About us page.

💡 Tip: Need EPDs for a tender or certification? Mention it in your project quote request.

➡️ Next step: Click here to request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: I am an architect or designer. How can Saniso help with specifications? (Business section) and What products does Saniso sell? (Products section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Need sustainable products or EPDs for your project? Anna is happy to think along with you.

Saniso supports architects and designers from concept to completion, with product selection, specifications, value engineering and after-sales service.

1. Collect the products for your design on a project list.
2. Include your requirements, planning and any specifications in your request.
3. We review your request and come back with a structured proposal, including product alternatives where relevant.
4. Prefer to talk first? Schedule an appointment and choose an online meeting or an in-store visit.

💡 Tip: Use the tile catalogue and the Design Lab to choose tiles for your design.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment to discuss your project.

🔗 See also: Does Saniso offer sustainable products with EPDs or ecolabels? (Business section) and How do I request a quote for several products or a large project? (Business section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Working out specifications for your design? Anna is happy to think along with you.

For several products, large quantities or a whole project, you put everything on a project list and submit it as a quote request; you need a customer account for this.

Create a customer account or log in.Create a new project list via your project lists and give your project a recognisable name.Click 'Add to Project List' for every product you need.Is your selection complete? Then submit the project list as a quote request.

Our team will then get back to you with a proposal. For a quote for a single product, use the 'Request Quote' button on the product page.

This short video of under a minute shows you how to submit your project list as a project request.

💡 Tip: Create a separate project list for each project or building phase. That keeps your quote requests clear.

➡️ Next step: Click here to start your project list and request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: How do I create a project list and request a project quote? (Project lists section) and How do I request a quote for a single product? (Ordering section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Need a quote for a large project or large quantities? Anna is happy to discuss it with you.

Yes, paying at Saniso is safe: our website uses an encrypted (SSL) connection and your payment is handled by a payment provider.

• Our website uses an encrypted (SSL) connection.
• Your payment is handled by a payment provider. We have data processing agreements with these parties to protect your data.
• In our webshop, you pay using the payment methods shown during checkout.
• We only process and deliver your order once we have received your payment.
• We protect your data in other ways too, for example with secure storage, access restrictions and regular security updates.

Read more about how we handle your data in our privacy policy.

💡 Tip: Unsure about a payment request, or do the bank details look different from usual? Please don't pay, and contact us first via live chat or our contact form.

➡️ Next step: Click here to browse our range of tiles, sanitaryware and building materials.

🔗 See also: How does payment work in the webshop? (Payment section) and I have paid, but I cannot see my order. What now? (Payment section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure whether a payment request really comes from Saniso? Daan is happy to help you personally.

Yes, all prices on saniso.nl and in our showroom include VAT and exclude shipping costs, unless stated otherwise.

Is your business based outside the Netherlands? You may be eligible for 0% VAT.

💡 Tip: Prefer to avoid shipping costs? You can also collect your order free of charge from our showroom in Zwaag.

➡️ Next step: Business based outside the Netherlands? Click here to read how to apply for 0% VAT.

🔗 See also: My company is based outside the Netherlands. Can I order without VAT? (Business section) and How does payment work in the webshop? (Payment section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Prices including or excluding VAT? Daan will be happy to explain.

First check whether your order appears in 'My account' and whether the payment has left your account; we only process an order once payment has been received.

1. Log in and check your orders in 'My account'.
2. Check your inbox and spam folder for an email from Saniso.
3. Check with your bank whether the payment has been debited.
4. Paid, but no order? Contact us and include your proof of payment.

💡 Tip: Do not pay again until you are sure the first payment failed; that way you avoid a double order.

➡️ Next step: Click here to log in and view your orders.

🔗 See also: How does payment work in the webshop? (Payment section) and Where can I find my orders and account details? (Account section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Paid, but can't see your order? Daan is happy to help you personally.

In our showroom in Zwaag you can pay by debit card or cash, unless agreed otherwise.

• Debit card or cash: straight away with your purchase.
• Proof of purchase: your receipt or invoice. Keep it safe for warranty or exchanges.

💡 Tip: Book an in-store visit in advance: Schedule an appointment, so our team has time for you.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book a showroom visit.

🔗 See also: What are the showroom opening hours? (Showroom section) and How does payment work in the webshop? (Payment section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about paying in the showroom? Daan is happy to help.

In the webshop, you pay straight away at checkout using one of the payment methods shown there; as soon as we receive your payment, we get to work on your order.

Add your products to the cart and go to checkout.Choose one of the payment methods offered.Complete the payment. It is processed securely by a payment provider over an encrypted connection.Once we have received your payment, we process and deliver your order.

Payment didn't go through? Then we won't process the order. You can see your orders in 'My account'.

💡 Tip: Don't pay again if you're unsure whether a payment went through. First check your orders in 'My account' and your bank account.

➡️ Next step: Click here to browse our range.

🔗 See also: Is it safe to pay at Saniso? (Payment section) and What payment terms are available? (Payment section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about paying for your order? Daan is happy to help.

Saniso offers three payment terms: payment in advance, payment within 7 days and payment within 14 days.

Payment in advance: when you order in the webshop, you pay at checkout. We process your order once we have received your payment.Within 7 days or within 14 days: which term applies to you is agreed with our sales team, per customer or per order.

Not paying in the webshop, for example after a quote? Then you may receive a payment link from us by email. If a payment is still outstanding after the agreed term, you may receive a payment reminder.

💡 Tip: Is there a payment term on your invoice or in your payment link? Pay within that term and you won't need a reminder.

➡️ Next step: Click here to discuss payment terms with our sales team.

🔗 See also: How does payment work in the webshop? (Payment section) and How do I apply for a wholesale account? (Business section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about your payment term? Daan is happy to help.

We ship your order with carriers such as PostNL, DHL and DPD; large or heavy items are delivered by special transport or by our own delivery service.

• We deliver your order to the address you enter when ordering.
• Parcels are shipped with reliable carriers such as PostNL, DHL and DPD.
• Larger or heavy items are delivered by special transport or by our own delivery service.
• As soon as your order has been shipped, you will receive an email with a shipping confirmation and a Track & Trace code.

Prefer to pick it up yourself? You can collect your order free of charge from our showroom at De Corantijn 95 in Zwaag. We will let you know as soon as your order is ready.

In this short video of just over a minute, you follow your order all the way from our website to your door.

💡 Tip: Please check your order as soon as it arrives. Is something damaged, or did you receive the wrong item? Contact us within 48 hours via live chat or our contact form and we will find a suitable solution.

➡️ Next step: Click here to track your order.

🔗 See also: How can I track my order? (Shipping section) and Do you deliver outside the Netherlands? (Shipping section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about delivery or collecting your order? Daan is happy to help.

Yes, Saniso delivers throughout Europe. Each delivery location does have its own delivery costs.

• Where: the Netherlands, Belgium and all other European countries.
• Costs: the delivery costs depend on the country and place of delivery, and on what you order.
• Large orders: we also deliver pallets and building materials throughout Europe. We charge a deposit for a euro pallet, which we credit when you return it (euro pallet).
• Prefer to collect? That is possible too. You collect your order from Saniso in Zwaag, so you pay no delivery costs. Please allow about 10 minutes for us to collect your order.

Is your business based outside the Netherlands? Then you may qualify for 0% VAT. You will find all the details on the tax exemption page.

💡 Tip: Would you like to know in advance what delivery to your address costs? Email us your delivery address and what you would like to order.

➡️ Next step: Click here to request a project quotation, including delivery to your location.

🔗 See also: My company is based outside the Netherlands. Can I order without VAT? (Business section) and How will my order be shipped? (Shipping section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Want to know what delivery to your address costs? Daan is happy to help.

Track your order with the Track & Trace code in your shipping email, or on saniso.nl with your order number and email address.

As soon as your order has been shipped, you will receive an email with a shipping confirmation and a Track & Trace code. Use this code to follow your parcel with the carrier.

To track your order on our website:

1. Go to the order tracking page.
2. Enter your order number under 'Order ID'.
3. Enter your email address.
4. Click 'Track'.

Have a customer account? Log in. All your orders are listed under 'My account'.

Collecting your order from our showroom in Zwaag? We will let you know as soon as it is ready.

💡 Tip: Is something going wrong with the delivery, for example with PostNL? Let us know via live chat or our contact form. Our customer service team will look into it for you.

➡️ Next step: Click here to track your order with your order number.

🔗 See also: My parcel has not arrived. What now? (Shipping section) and I was not home when my order was delivered. What now? (Shipping section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Track & Trace not working, or can't follow your parcel? Daan is happy to help you personally.

First check the Track & Trace email to see where your parcel is; if it shows as delivered but you have not received anything, contact us with your order number.

1. Open the shipping confirmation with the Track & Trace code and check the status.
2. Does it say 'delivered'? Ask your neighbours and check for a card or a pick-up point.
3. Still nothing? Email us your order number and we will look into it with you.

💡 Tip: Delivering to a building site? Make sure someone is there to accept the delivery.

➡️ Next step: Click here to track your order.

🔗 See also: How can I track my order? (Shipping section) and I was not home when my order was delivered. What now? (Shipping section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Parcel not received? Daan is happy to help you personally.

If you were not home, the carrier's Track & Trace will show what happens to your parcel, for example a new delivery attempt, delivery to a neighbour or a pick-up point.

1. Open the Track & Trace link from your shipping confirmation.
2. See what the carrier says: new attempt, neighbour or pick-up point.
3. Follow the carrier's instructions, for example to choose a new date.

Large or heavy products are sometimes delivered by special transport or our own delivery service. In that case, contact us to arrange a new time.

💡 Tip: Parcel left with a neighbour? Collect it soon and check it for damage straight away.

➡️ Next step: Click here to track your order.

🔗 See also: How can I track my order? (Shipping section) and My parcel has not arrived. What now? (Shipping section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Missed your delivery? Daan is happy to help.

Yes, if Saniso delivers your order on a euro pallet, we charge a deposit for the pallet. When you return the pallet, we credit the deposit.

1. Ordering a large quantity, such as tiles or building materials? We often deliver it on a euro pallet.
2. You will see the pallet deposit on your order. You can find the amount on the euro pallet in our webshop.
3. Return the pallet to Saniso in good condition and we will credit the deposit.

💡 Tip: Keep the pallet dry and undamaged, so you can return it without any problems.

➡️ Next step: Click here to read how we deliver heavy products.

🔗 See also: How will my order be shipped? (Shipping section) and Can I return my online order? (Returns section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about the pallet deposit or returning a pallet? Daan is happy to help.

Yes, you can return an online order: you have a 14-day cooling-off period, starting on the day you receive your order.

Within that period you can cancel the purchase and send the item back without giving a reason. Here is how:

1. Register your return with us first, via live chat or our contact form.
2. Check that your item meets the return conditions.
3. Then send the item back to us.

💡 Tip: Don't send anything back before you have registered your return. That way we know your parcel is on its way.

➡️ Next step: Click here to read the return conditions.

🔗 See also: What conditions apply to returns? (Returns section) and Who pays for return shipping, and when will I get my money back? (Returns section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Returning an order to Saniso? Daan is happy to help.

Your return must be unused and undamaged, in its original packaging where possible, and include the invoice or packing slip; you return it within 14 days of receipt.

You can return a webshop order within 14 days of receiving it. The conditions:

• the item is unused and undamaged;
• where reasonably possible, it is in its original packaging;
• you include the invoice or packing slip in your return.

How to return an item:

1. Register your return with us first, via live chat or our contact form.
2. Send the item to our return address: Saniso, De Corantijn 95, 1689 AN Zwaag, the Netherlands.
3. Once we have received and checked your return, we will refund the purchase amount to your account within 14 days.

Some items cannot be returned, such as custom-made products and products whose hygiene seal has been broken. These conditions apply to webshop orders. You can also find everything in our terms and conditions.

💡 Tip: Keep the original packaging until you are sure you want to keep the item. Then you can return it neatly if you need to.

➡️ Next step: Click here to register your return via the contact form.

🔗 See also: Which products can't be returned? (Returns section) and Who pays for return shipping, and when will I get my money back? (Returns section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure whether your return meets the conditions? Daan will be happy to explain it to you personally.

Custom-made products, items ordered specially for you, hygiene-sealed products with a broken seal, and items that are visibly used or damaged through your own actions cannot be returned.

Webshop orders come with a 14-day cooling-off period. These products are excluded from returns:

• custom-made products, such as tailor-made furniture, and items ordered specially for you;
• products sealed for hygiene reasons, once the seal has been broken;
• items that are visibly used or damaged through your own actions.

Is an item faulty, or did we send you the wrong one? Please contact us. In that case, Saniso covers the return costs and we will find a suitable solution.

You can find the full rules in our terms and conditions.

💡 Tip: Only break a seal once you are sure you want to keep the product.

➡️ Next step: Not sure whether a product can be returned? Click here to ask us before you order.

🔗 See also: What conditions apply to returns? (Returns section) and Can I return my online order? (Returns section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Can your item be returned, or is it one of the exceptions? Daan is happy to help.

Return shipping is at your expense, unless the item is faulty or we sent the wrong one; we refund the purchase amount within 14 days of receiving and checking your return.

• Return shipping is at your expense, unless we have agreed otherwise.
• If the item is faulty or we sent you the wrong one, Saniso covers the return costs.
• Once we have received and checked your return, we will refund the purchase amount within 14 days.

💡 Tip: Returning your entire order? Then we will also refund the shipping costs you paid.

➡️ Next step: Click here to register your return via the contact form.

🔗 See also: Can I return my online order? (Returns section) and What conditions apply to returns? (Returns section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about return costs or your refund? Daan is happy to help.

Have a complaint? Let us know via [email protected], live chat or our contact form, and we will work with you to find a solution.

We're sorry you're not satisfied. Here is what to do:

1. Submit your complaint in writing or by email to [email protected]. You are also welcome to use live chat or our contact form.
2. Include your order number and briefly describe the problem.
3. Our customer service team handles complaints personally and will keep you informed. We aim to resolve complaints within 14 days.

💡 Tip: Add a photo. It often helps us see quickly what is wrong.

➡️ Next step: Click here to submit your complaint via the contact form.

🔗 See also: How can I contact Saniso? (Contact section) and Can I return my online order? (Returns section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Want to make a complaint to Saniso? Evelien is happy to help you personally.

The quickest way to reach Saniso is the live chat on our website; you can also call, email, use the contact form or book an appointment.

• Live chat (quickest): click the chat button at the bottom right. Anna answers your questions, from product advice to ordering and quotes.
• Phone: +31 85 488 5920.
• Email: [email protected].
• Contact form: on our contact page.
• Appointment: prefer to meet in person? Book an appointment.

💡 Tip: For a quick question, the live chat is often the easiest option: Anna can help you there with almost anything, from product advice to your order.

➡️ Next step: Click here to go to the contact page.

🔗 See also: Can I chat with Saniso? (Contact section) and Who are the people behind Saniso? (Contact section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Prefer to contact Saniso personally? Evelien is happy to help.

Behind Saniso is a team in Zwaag that helps you with building materials, tiles, sanitaryware and personal service, from design and specification to delivery and aftercare.

Saniso is a wholesaler of building materials, tiles and sanitaryware: a single source supplier for your project, from start to finish. Read more on our About us page.

In this video of about a minute and a half, you meet our team.

💡 Tip: Prefer to meet in person? Book an in-store visit to our showroom in Zwaag.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment and meet us in the showroom.

🔗 See also: How can I contact Saniso? (Contact section) and Can I get advice without visiting the showroom? (Advice section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

A question for our team? Evelien is happy to help.

Saniso B.V. is located at De Corantijn 95, 1689 AN Zwaag, the Netherlands, with Chamber of Commerce (KvK) number 96532785 and VAT number NL867649987B01.

• Company name: Saniso B.V.
• Address: De Corantijn 95, 1689 AN Zwaag, the Netherlands
• Chamber of Commerce (KvK): 96532785
• VAT: NL867649987B01
• Phone: +31 85 488 5920

💡 Tip: Need these details for a supplier registration? You can copy them from here.

➡️ Next step: Click here to read our terms and conditions.

🔗 See also: How can I contact Saniso? (Contact section) and Who are the people behind Saniso? (Contact section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Need other company details? Evelien is happy to help.

The Saniso website is available in Dutch and English; use the language selector at the top of the page to switch.

• Dutch: www.saniso.nl/nl
• English: www.saniso.nl
• Customers from other countries use the English version.

💡 Tip: Your browser can also translate a page automatically, for example into German or French.

➡️ Next step: Click here to go to the Dutch website.

🔗 See also: How can I contact Saniso? (Contact section) and Can I chat with Saniso? (Contact section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about the website language? Evelien is happy to help.

On the Working at Saniso page you can read what we offer; open applications are always welcome.

• What we offer: career growth, an innovative working environment, international experience, a wide product range and a supportive team culture.
• Applying: send us a message via the form on the page.

💡 Tip: Briefly tell us in your message who you are and what you would like to do at Saniso.

➡️ Next step: Click here to visit Careers at Saniso.

🔗 See also: Who are the people behind Saniso? (Contact section) and How can I contact Saniso? (Contact section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about working at Saniso? Evelien is happy to help.

Yes, you can ask Anna anything via the live chat on our website: from technical questions and product advice to ordering, quotes and your project list.

Click the round chat button at the bottom right. You will find it on every page of saniso.nl.A 'Saniso Support' window opens. Enter your name and, if you like, your email address.Click 'Start Chat' and ask your question.

Anna, team leader at Saniso, answers the live chat. You can ask her about things like:

Technical specifications: dimensions, connections, materials, weight and load capacity of a product.Product advice and comparisons: which product best suits your situation, and how two products differ.Do products go together?: for example a tap with a washbasin, a toilet seat with a toilet or a tile adhesive with your tile.Choosing tiles, sanitaryware, building materials and tools: help choosing from our range.Calculating quantities: roughly how many tiles, how much adhesive, grout or other material you need.Installation and maintenance: questions about fitting, connecting, cleaning and maintaining your product.Alternatives: can't find something in the webshop? Anna will help you find an alternative.Ordering: help placing your order and questions about an order.Payment and payment links: questions about payment methods, payment terms and a payment link you have received from us.Delivery and collection: questions about delivery or collecting your order from our showroom in Zwaag.Quotes: a quote for a single product via 'Request Quote' on the product page, or a quote request for several products via your project list.Project list and account: help creating a project list and questions about your customer account.Business and wholesale account: what Saniso can do for your business and how to apply for a wholesale account.Showroom appointment: help planning a visit to our showroom.

Chat not available, or prefer email? Send an email to [email protected]. You can also call us: the phone number is at the top of the chat window.

💡 Tip: Have the item number (SKU), measurements or a photo to hand, for example of your room or of the part you are looking for. That helps Anna help you faster and better.

➡️ Next step: Click the chat button at the bottom right, or Click here to send us a message via the contact page.

🔗 See also: How can I contact Saniso? (Contact section) and Can I get advice without visiting the showroom? (Advice section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Prefer email to live chat? Anna is happy to help.

Our showroom in Zwaag is open Tuesday to Friday from 9:00 to 16:30 and on Saturday from 9:00 to 14:30. We are closed on Monday and Sunday.

• Tuesday to Friday: 9:00–16:30.
• Saturday: 9:00–14:30.
• Monday and Sunday: closed.
• Address: De Corantijn 95, 1689 AN Zwaag, the Netherlands.
• Phone: +31 85 488 5920.
• Appointment: Schedule an appointment and choose 'In-Store Visit', at least 24 hours in advance.

You are welcome to walk in, but we recommend booking an appointment in advance. That way our team has time and attention for you.

💡 Tip: Bring photos, measurements or a drawing of your room: that helps us advise you better.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book a showroom visit.

🔗 See also: What types of appointments can I book with Saniso? (Showroom section) and How can I pay in the showroom? (Payment section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Planning a showroom visit? Anna is happy to help.

At Saniso you can choose from four types of appointment: an in-store visit, an online meeting, a site visit or a phone call, booked at least 24 hours in advance.

• In-Store Visit: in our showroom in Zwaag.
• Online Meeting: remote advice via video.
• Site Visit: at your location.
• Phone Call: we call you at the agreed time.

You choose a date, a time and a duration from 30 minutes to 2 hours, and briefly describe the purpose of the appointment.

In this short video of just over a minute you will see step by step how to book an appointment online.

💡 Tip: Briefly describe what you need help with in 'Purpose of the appointment', so we can prepare properly.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment.

🔗 See also: What are the showroom opening hours? (Showroom section) and Can I get advice without visiting the showroom? (Advice section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which appointment suits you? Anna is happy to help.

Yes, you can get advice without visiting our showroom in Zwaag: by online meeting, phone call or site visit.

Book an appointment on our appointment page:

1. Under 'Appointment Type', choose the format: 'Online Meeting', 'Phone Call', 'Site Visit' or an 'In-Store Visit' to the showroom after all.
2. Choose a date, a time and the duration, from 30 minutes to 2 hours. Please book at least 24 hours in advance.
3. Under 'Purpose of Appointment', briefly tell us what you would like advice on.

Have a quick question? Use our live chat, which is also staffed at weekends.

Working on a larger project? Share your wishes, planning and any product selection using the form on our project request page. Our team will then handle your request personally.

This short video of just over a minute shows you how to book an appointment online, including a remote advice appointment.

💡 Tip: Need advice on a specific product, such as tiles or a bathroom cabinet? Please mention the product or item number, the dimensions and your situation, so we can advise you properly.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book your advice appointment.

🔗 See also: Can I chat with Saniso? (Contact section) and What types of appointments can I book with Saniso? (Showroom section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for remote advice on your bathroom or tiles? Anna is happy to help you choose.

Yes, Saniso supports new-build and renovation projects from start to finish: from building materials and the last screw to tiles, sanitaryware, tools and workwear.

• Everything from a single supplier: fewer links in the chain, a clearer overview.
• Delivery on site or in store on your preferred date, including phased deliveries in line with your building schedule.
• Personal advice, in our showroom in Zwaag or remotely.

This video of almost two minutes shows you how to build your home with Saniso.

💡 Tip: Use a project list for each building phase, such as shell, bathroom and finishing. That keeps your quotes clear.

➡️ Next step: Click here to start your project list and request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: Can I buy building materials online? (Ordering section) and How do I plan a renovation, such as a kitchen, floor or extension? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Building a home and want all your materials from one supplier? Anna is happy to help you plan it.

Saniso is a wholesaler of building materials, tiles and sanitaryware: our webshop has everything for construction, renovation and your bathroom.

Our range includes:

• ceramic tiles;
• bathroom products and sanitaryware, such as bathroom furniture, toilets, shower enclosures and taps;
• building materials, such as grouts, adhesives, sealants and installation materials;
• tools, fixings, workwear and PPE, and garden products.

We work with brands such as Cersanit, Meissen Keramik, Kerakoll, Progress Profiles, Stalco and Raimondi.

Looking for something you can't find straight away, such as window frames or custom work? Just ask us.

💡 Tip: Not sure how many tiles you need? In the Planning Lab you design your space in 3D and instantly calculate how much material you need.

➡️ Next step: Click here to browse the full range.

🔗 See also: I can't find my product. What now? (Products section) and Can I buy building materials online? (Ordering section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for tiles, sanitaryware or building materials you can't find? Sophie is happy to help.

Whether a product is in stock is shown on the product page under 'Availability', for example 'In stock'.

Items that are out of stock or need to be specially ordered have a longer delivery time. This is always shown on the product page or during checkout.

Need larger quantities, for example for a project?

1. Click 'Add to project list' on the product. This way you collect everything for a bulk quote.
2. Is your list complete? Submit it as a quote request.
3. Our team will review your request and come back to you with a proposal.

You create project lists from your customer account. For some products, you first request a custom quote; in that form, you also enter the quantity you need.

💡 Tip: Prefer to discuss it first? Contact us via live chat or our contact form, and we will check current availability for you.

➡️ Next step: Click here to read how to request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: I can't find my product. What now? (Products section) and How do I request a quote for a single product? (Ordering section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure whether an item is in stock, or need larger quantities? Daan is happy to help.

You will find inspiration, tile catalogues and help calculating materials on saniso.nl: download our 2026 Ceramic Tile Catalogue and use the Planning Lab to work out how much material you need.

• 2026 Ceramic Tile Catalogue: download it as a PDF on our catalogues page, in four parts or as one complete file.
• Inspiration Lab in our Design Lab: explore styles and ideas.
• Planning Lab: design your space in 3D and instantly calculate how much material you need.
• Our blog: tips, guides and brand information.

This short video of just over a minute shows you how to try out tiles in the Inspiration Lab.

💡 Tip: Want to try out tiles before you choose? You can do that in the Inspiration Lab; the video above shows you how.

➡️ Next step: Found what you need? Click here to put your tiles and materials on a project list and request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: How many tiles do I need? (Tiles section) and Where can I find tips, guides and news? (Products section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Tile catalogue, inspiration or calculating materials? Sophie is happy to help you personally.

The Design Lab is your place on saniso.nl to dream, design and plan: explore styles in the Inspiration Lab and design your space in 3D in the Planning Lab.

• Inspiration Lab: explore styles, get inspired and find ideas.
• Planning Lab: design your space in 3D, plan the layout and instantly calculate how much material you need.

This lets you see our ceramic tiles come to life, for example in your new bathroom.

This video of about a minute and a half shows you how to design your bathroom in the Design Lab.

💡 Tip: Let the Planning Lab work out how many tiles you need before you order or create a project list.

➡️ Next step: Click here to open the Design Lab.

🔗 See also: How do I design and lay out my bathroom? (Renovation section) and Where can I find inspiration, catalogues and help calculating materials? (Products section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Stuck designing your bathroom in the Design Lab? Sophie will be happy to help you personally.

You will find tips, guides and news on the Saniso blog, sorted by topic.

Topics include:

• bathroom and sanitary;
• tiles and flooring;
• building materials and DIY;
• workwear and safety, tools and machinery;
• gardening, kitchen and living, and news about Saniso and our brands.

This short video of just over a minute shows you the tips and inspiration you will find on our blog.

💡 Tip: Doing it yourself? Have a look at our DIY guides and building tips.

➡️ Next step: Click here to read our blog.

🔗 See also: Where can I find inspiration, catalogues and help calculating materials? (Products section) and What is the Design Lab? (Products section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for a tip or guide for your job? Sophie is happy to help.

For every product in the webshop, click 'Wishlist' to save it or 'Compare' to view products side by side.

1. Click 'Wishlist' or 'Compare' on a product.
2. View your saved products on the Wishlist page.
3. View products side by side on the Compare page.

💡 Tip: Made your choice for a larger project? Add the products to a project list, so you can request a quote.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view your favourites.

🔗 See also: I can't find my product. What now? (Products section) and What products does Saniso sell? (Products section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Deciding between two products? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

Can't find your product in our webshop? Please get in touch: we are still adding more suppliers online, and we can often supply the product for you anyway.

• Search smart: try the brand, the article number or a different description in the search bar.
• Still not found? Email us the brand name, the article number or a photo of the product.
• We look into it: if the product is not in our webshop, we will search for a supplier for you and let you know how we can supply it.

Saniso supplies everything for construction, and our online range grows every week.

💡 Tip: Include the quantity you need, so we can help you faster.

➡️ Next step: Click here to search our range.

🔗 See also: Can I chat with Saniso? (Contact section) and How do I save favourites and compare products? (Products section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Can't find your product? Sophie is happy to look into it for you.

Floor tiles are harder, more wear-resistant and often less slippery than wall tiles; that is why you can usually use floor tiles on walls, but not wall tiles on floors.

• Floor tiles: made to be walked on and to carry loads. Check the wear resistance and slip resistance.
• Wall tiles: often thinner and lighter, with a softer body. Not intended to be walked on.
• Wall and floor tiles: suitable for both. Handy for one continuous look in your bathroom.

The product information of each tile tells you what it is suitable for.

💡 Tip: Want the same tile on your floor and walls? Take a look at the wall and floor tiles.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Foggy Night Light Grey Matt Rect 60 × 60 tile.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all tiles.

🔗 See also: What do the slip resistance ratings R9, R10, R11 and R12 mean? (Tiles section) and Which tile size suits a small bathroom? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure whether a tile is suitable for floors? Sophie is happy to help.

For outdoor use, choose a frost-resistant tile with low water absorption and enough slip resistance, for example a 2 cm thick ceramic outdoor tile for your patio or garden.

• Frost-resistant: porcelain tiles absorb very little water, which makes them resistant to frost.
• Slip resistance: outdoors, choose a non-slip tile, for example R11 or higher, especially on slopes or near water.
• Thickness: 2 cm tiles can be laid loose on sand, grit or pedestals. Thinner tiles are bonded to a solid, load-bearing base.
• Fall: make sure rainwater can drain away.

💡 Tip: Check the product information to see whether the tile is labelled as an outdoor or frost-resistant tile.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Quarzite Stone 2.0 Grey Matt Rect 60 × 60 outdoor tile.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our outdoor tiles.

🔗 See also: What do the slip resistance ratings R9, R10, R11 and R12 mean? (Tiles section) and How do I lay a tiled floor? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Choosing outdoor tiles for your patio or garden? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

A rectified tile has been ground to its exact size after firing, giving it sharp, straight edges; that lets you lay it with a narrow joint.

• Rectified: the edges are machine-ground, so all tiles are (almost) exactly the same size. A joint of about 2 to 3 mm is possible.
• Non-rectified: slightly less sharp edges. Choose a somewhat wider joint.
• Calibre: the actual size class of a production batch, often shown on the box. Do not mix calibres within one surface.

💡 Tip: Order all tiles for one room at the same time, so they come from the same batch and calibre.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the rectified Objekt White Satin 30 × 60 tile.

➡️ Next step: Click here to browse our ceramic tiles.

🔗 See also: Why do tiles sometimes differ in colour, and what can I do? (Tiles section) and Which grout and grout colour should I choose? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about rectified tiles or joint width? Sophie will be happy to explain it to you personally.

The R rating shows how slip-resistant a floor tile is: the higher the number (from R9 to R13), the better the tile prevents slipping.

• R9: indoors, in dry rooms such as living rooms and hallways.
• R10: indoors, in rooms that can get wet, such as bathrooms and kitchens.
• R11: wet areas such as shower floors, and outdoors.
• R12 and R13: professional areas with a lot of moisture or grease, such as commercial kitchens.

You will find the R rating in the product information, if the manufacturer provides it.

💡 Tip: On a shower floor, a smaller tile size gives extra grip, because there are more joints.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Portland Slate 2.0 Graphite Matt Rect 60 × 60 outdoor tile (R11b).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our floor tiles.

🔗 See also: What is the difference between wall tiles and floor tiles? (Tiles section) and Which tiles are suitable for outdoor use? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which slip resistance do you need for your bathroom? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

Tiles are fired in production batches, and each batch can have a slightly different shade or size; so order everything for one room at once and check the boxes before laying.

1. Order all tiles for one room at the same time, including a margin for cutting waste.
2. On delivery, check that all boxes have the same batch, shade or calibre number.
3. Before fixing, lay out a few tiles from different boxes side by side.
4. While laying, mix tiles from different boxes so small differences are evenly spread.
5. Do you see a clear difference? Do not lay the tiles, and contact us first.

With stone, wood or concrete-look tiles, variation between tiles is often intentional.

💡 Tip: Keep a few spare tiles from the same batch for future repairs.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Foggy Night Taupe Matt Rect 60 × 60 tile.

➡️ Next step: Notice a difference? Click here to contact us and mention your order number.

🔗 See also: How many tiles do I need? (Tiles section) and What does rectified mean, and what is a calibre? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Colour differences in your tiles? Evelien is happy to help you personally.

Large tiles work well even in a small bathroom: fewer joints create a calm look and make the room feel bigger.

• Large formats (for example 60×60 or 60×120 cm): calm, spacious and few joints.
• Small formats and mosaics: follow the fall of a shower floor easily and give extra grip thanks to the many joints.
• Light colours: make a small room look bigger.
• The same tile on floor and walls: gives a calm, continuous look.

💡 Tip: Try out different sizes and colours in the Planning Lab.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the large Foggy Night Light Grey Matt Rect 60 × 120 tile.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our wall and floor tiles.

🔗 See also: How can I make a small bathroom look bigger? (Renovation section) and How many tiles do I need? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which tile size to choose for your bathroom? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

Here is how to work out how many tiles you need: measure the area in m², add 5 to 10% for cutting waste (10 to 15% for a diagonal or herringbone pattern) and round up to whole boxes.

1. Measure the length × width of the floor, or the width × height of each wall, in metres.
2. Subtract large openings, such as doors and windows.
3. Add the cutting waste: about 5 to 10% for straight laying, 10 to 15% for diagonal, herringbone or lots of corners.
4. Divide by the m² per box (shown with the product) and round up.

Example: a floor of 2.5 × 2 m is 5 m². With 10% cutting waste you need 5.5 m². At 1.44 m² per box, that is 3.8 boxes, so 4 boxes.

In this video of about a minute and a half you will see how to design your room in the Design Lab; the Planning Lab also calculates how much material you need.

💡 Tip: Let the Planning Lab calculate the number of tiles for you, and keep a few spare tiles for later.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Foggy Night Light Grey Matt Rect 30 × 60 tile.

➡️ Next step: Click here to calculate your tiles in the Planning Lab.

🔗 See also: How much tile adhesive and grout do I need? (Tiles section) and Why do tiles sometimes differ in colour, and what can I do? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure how many tiles you need? Sophie will be happy to explain it to you personally.

How much tile adhesive and grout you need depends on the tile size, the notched trowel and the joint width; the consumption per m² is shown on the packaging or in the product's technical data sheet.

• Tile adhesive: larger tiles need a larger notched trowel, and therefore more adhesive per m².
• Grout: consumption depends on the tile size, the tile thickness and the width and depth of the joint. Large tiles with narrow joints need little grout.
• Margin: add a little extra, so you do not run out halfway.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Kerakoll H40 Gel.

💡 Tip: Many grout manufacturers offer a consumption calculator: enter your tile size and joint width.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Kerakoll H40 Grey Gel 25 kg.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all tile adhesives.

🔗 See also: Which tile adhesive do I need? (Tiles section) and Which grout and grout colour should I choose? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Need help calculating adhesive and grout? Sophie will be happy to explain it to you personally.

Tiling starts with a flat, dry, clean and load-bearing surface: level out any unevenness and treat absorbent or smooth surfaces with a primer first.

1. Remove dust, grease, loose parts and old adhesive residue.
2. Use a long spirit level or straightedge to check that the surface is flat.
3. Level an uneven floor with a levelling compound.
4. Apply a primer that suits the surface and the tile adhesive.
5. Waterproof wet areas, such as the shower, following the instructions of the waterproofing system.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for drying time, application temperature, coverage and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT S081564327.

💡 Tip: The technical data sheets of the adhesive and primer tell you which surfaces they are suitable for and how long they need to dry.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our primers.

🔗 See also: When and why should I use a primer? (Building materials section) and Can I lay new tiles over old tiles? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure whether your surface is ready for tiling? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

For most bathroom and kitchen tiles, choose a flexible cement-based tile adhesive, for example class C2 S1: it bonds well and absorbs small movements, even with large tiles and underfloor heating.

• C1 or C2: cement-based adhesive. C2 bonds better than C1.
• S1 or S2: deformable (flexible). Needed for large formats, underfloor heating and surfaces that may move.
• F: fast-setting, so you can grout the same day.
• D (ready-mixed paste): for smaller wall tiles on a dry, stable wall.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Kerakoll H40 Gel.

💡 Tip: The packaging or technical data sheet tells you which surface and tile size the adhesive is suitable for.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Kerakoll H40 White Gel 25 kg.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all tile adhesives.

🔗 See also: Can I lay tiles on underfloor heating? (Tiles section) and How do I tile a wall? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which tile adhesive suits your tiles? Sophie is happy to help.

For most tiles, a cement-based grout is the right choice; epoxy or hybrid grouts are extra stain-resistant. A grout in the colour of the tile creates a calm look, while a contrasting grout highlights the pattern.

• Cement-based grout: versatile, for walls and floors.
• Epoxy or hybrid grout: highly resistant to dirt, grease and moisture, for example in showers and kitchens.
• Joint width: depends on the tile and the surface. Rectified tiles allow a narrower joint.
• Colour: light grout shows dirt sooner. Grey is often a practical choice for floors.

At Saniso you will find grouts such as Fugabella Color and Fugalite Color from Kerakoll.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Fugabella Color KK101 3kg.

💡 Tip: Test the grout colour on a spare tile and let it dry: wet grout looks darker than dry grout.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Fugabella Color KK153 3 kg grout.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all grouts.

🔗 See also: How do I grout a bathroom? (Tiles section) and How do I keep grout clean, and should I seal it? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure about the right grout colour? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

In the bathroom, use sanitary silicone sealant: it stays elastic, is watertight and mould-resistant. Choose a sealant colour that matches your grout, or white or clear next to white sanitaryware.

• Sanitary silicone: for joints between bath, shower tray, washbasin and tiles, and in corners.
• Acrylic sealant: paintable, for dry joints such as skirting boards and indoor frames. Not for wet areas.
• Colour: the same colour as the grout gives a continuous look. White or clear suits white sanitaryware.

In the Silicone Color category you will find silicone sealant in many colours.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for application temperature, skin formation time, curing time and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Sanitary silicone Transparent STALCO PERFECT S-64794.

💡 Tip: Seal corners and junctions instead of grouting them: that is where materials move, and rigid grout will crack.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the STALCO PERFECT S-64800 neutral sanitary silicone.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our sanitary silicones.

🔗 See also: How do I seal my bathroom neatly? (Tiles section) and How do I replace the sealant joints in my bathroom? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which sealant colour suits your tiles? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

Yes, ceramic tiles are very well suited to underfloor heating because they conduct heat well; do use a flexible tile adhesive and switch the heating off while laying.

1. Let a new screed with underfloor heating dry and heat up first, following the installer's protocol.
2. Switch off the underfloor heating while laying and curing.
3. Use a flexible tile adhesive (S1) and a grout suitable for underfloor heating.
4. Leave expansion joints along the walls and in large areas.
5. Then raise the temperature gradually.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Kerakoll H40 Gel.

💡 Tip: Check the technical data sheets of the adhesive and grout to see whether they are suitable for underfloor heating.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Kerakoll H40 White Gel 25 kg.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all tile adhesives.

🔗 See also: Which tile adhesive do I need? (Tiles section) and How do I lay a tiled floor? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Tiling over underfloor heating and unsure about the adhesive? Sophie is happy to help.

Laying tiles over tiles is often possible, as long as the old tiles are firmly fixed, flat and clean; you then need a bonding primer and a flexible tile adhesive.

1. Tap the old tiles: remove hollow-sounding or loose tiles first and fill the gaps.
2. Clean and degrease the old tiles thoroughly.
3. Apply a bonding primer for smooth, non-absorbent surfaces.
4. Fix the new tiles with a flexible tile adhesive.

Keep the extra height in mind at doors, drains, taps and sanitaryware.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Kerakoll H40 Gel.

💡 Tip: Do not line up the new joints exactly with the old ones: this creates a stronger result.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Keragrip Eco Pulep bonding primer.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our primers.

🔗 See also: How do I prepare the surface for tiling? (Tiles section) and When and why should I use a primer? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Tiling over tiles and not sure it will work? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

Tile trims (finishing profiles) give outside corners, edges and transitions a clean, impact-resistant finish, without visible cut edges.

• Corner trims: for outside corners of walls, niches and window sills.
• Edge trims: for the edge of a tiled surface.
• Transition profiles: between two floors or floor heights.
• Height: choose the profile height that matches the thickness of your tile.

Saniso offers trims from brands such as Progress Profiles.

💡 Tip: Set the trim into the adhesive together with the tiles, so it is firmly fixed.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view the Progress Profiles range.

🔗 See also: How do I cut or drill tiles? (Tiles section) and How do I tile a wall? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for the right tile trim? Sophie is happy to help.

Straight cuts are made with a tile cutter; for hard ceramic tiles, notches and holes, use tools with a diamond blade or diamond drill bit.

• Tile cutter: quick and clean for straight cuts.
• Angle grinder or tile saw with a diamond blade: for hard or thick tiles and L-shaped notches.
• Diamond or tile drill bit: for holes for pipes and fixings. Drill without hammer action and cool with water.
• Safety: wear eye protection, hearing protection and work gloves.

💡 Tip: Start drilling at low speed so the bit does not wander. A piece of masking tape on the tile also helps.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the STALCO ø6 mm diamond drill bit.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our saw blades and accessories.

🔗 See also: Which disc should I use on an angle grinder? (Tools section) and Which tools do I need to tile myself? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which blade or drill bit suits your tiles? Sophie is happy to help.

To tile yourself, you mainly need a notched trowel, spirit level, tile cutter, tile spacers or a levelling system, a rubber mallet, a grout float and a sponge.

• Measuring and setting out: tape measure, spirit level, pencil and possibly a laser.
• Adhesive: bucket, mixing paddle for your drill and a notched trowel.
• Laying: tile spacers or a levelling system and a rubber mallet.
• Cutting: tile cutter and possibly a diamond saw.
• Grouting: grout float, sponge and bucket.

💡 Tip: Also read our guide to choosing a claw hammer, sledgehammer or soft-face mallet.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the notched stainless steel trowel 280 × 130 mm (8 × 8 notch).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our construction tools.

🔗 See also: How do I tile a wall? (Tiles section) and How do I cut or drill tiles? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for a complete set of tiling tools? Sophie is happy to help.

Clean ceramic tiles with lukewarm water and a pH-neutral cleaner; avoid aggressive and abrasive products, especially on grout and glossy tiles.

• Daily: vacuum or sweep, then wipe with a damp cloth or mop.
• Limescale in the bathroom: squeegee the tiles after showering and occasionally use a mild descaler that is suitable for tiles and grout.
• After laying: remove the cement haze with a cement film remover, following the instructions on the packaging.
• Best avoided: bleach, strong acids on cement grout, or steel wool.

💡 Tip: Always test a new cleaning product on an inconspicuous spot first.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Fila PS87 Pro 1 litre cleaner and degreaser.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our cleaning products.

🔗 See also: How do I keep grout clean, and should I seal it? (Tiles section) and How do I remove grout haze from tiles? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for the right cleaner for your tiles? Sophie is happy to help.

Keep grout clean by brushing it regularly with a soft brush and a mild cleaner; a sealer makes cement-based grout dirt- and water-repellent.

• Cleaning: soft brush, lukewarm water and a mild cleaner. Rinse well.
• Sealing: only once the grout has fully cured. Follow the drying time on the packaging.
• Epoxy grout: is already dirt- and water-repellent by itself.
• Tiles: some unglazed tiles can also be sealed. Check the product information.

💡 Tip: Squeegee the walls after showering: this prevents limescale and mould in the joints.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Fila Fuga Proof 750 ml joint protector.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our impregnating agents.

🔗 See also: How do I clean and maintain ceramic tiles? (Tiles section) and How do I remove old grout and regrout? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Sealing grout and unsure which product to use? Sophie is happy to help.

Replace a sealant joint when it comes loose, cracks or stays black from mould: cut away all the old sealant, clean and dry the joint, and apply new sanitary silicone.

1. Cut away the old sealant with a sealant remover or sharp knife.
2. Remove all residue and degrease the joint.
3. Let the joint dry completely.
4. Mask the edges with painter's tape if you like.
5. Apply the sealant, smooth it and remove the tape straight away.
6. Let the sealant cure before showering again. The curing time is on the packaging.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for application temperature, skin formation time, curing time and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Sanitary silicone Transparent STALCO PERFECT S-64794.

💡 Tip: Fill a bath with water before sealing the joint along it: the sealant will be less likely to crack later.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Fila Zero Sil silicone remover.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our sanitary silicones.

🔗 See also: How do I remove old sealant and sealant residue? (Tiles section) and How do I seal my bathroom neatly? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Replacing sealant and unsure which product to use? Sophie is happy to help.

You grout a bathroom by mixing the grout as described on the packaging, pressing it diagonally into the joints with a rubber grout float, wiping off the excess with a damp sponge and removing the grout haze once it has dried. Corners and junctions are not grouted: you seal them separately.

What do you need?

• Grout in the colour of your choice
• A rubber grout float
• A bucket and a mixer or mixing paddle
• A grout sponge, such as the Raimondi floor sponge
• A grout haze remover such as Fila Deterdek Pro and, if you like, a joint protector such as Fila Fuga Proof
• Gloves: grout is cement-based and can irritate the skin

Step by step:

1. Choose the grout and the colour. Cement-based grout is versatile; epoxy or hybrid grouts are extra resistant to dirt and moisture. Test the colour on a spare tile and let it dry: wet grout looks darker.
2. Check the joint width. You set it while tiling, with tile spacers or a levelling system. The grout's specifications state which joint widths it is suitable for.
3. Wait until the tile adhesive has cured sufficiently. How long that takes is stated in the adhesive's technical specifications, for example those of Kerakoll H40 Gel. Then remove the spacers or levelling clips, make the joints dust-free and keep corners and junctions free of adhesive and grout.
4. Mix the grout using the mixing ratio on the packaging and clean water. Mix at low speed until the mixture is free of lumps, and only mix as much as you can use within the working time.
5. Apply the grout with the rubber float: work it diagonally across the joints and press it in firmly so that no voids remain. Work in small areas.
6. Wash off as soon as the grout has started to set: remove the excess diagonally with a damp, well wrung-out sponge. Rinse the sponge often in clean water.
7. Remove the grout haze. A grey haze often remains once the grout has dried. Polish off a fresh haze with a dry cloth; remove a stubborn haze with a grout haze remover, following the instructions.
8. Let the grout cure. Only use the shower again after the time stated in the specifications.
9. Seal corners and junctions separately with sanitary silicone sealant: internal corners, the junction between wall and floor, and the edges of the bath, shower tray and washbasin. These joints move, and rigid grout would crack.
10. Seal the grout if you wish once cement-based grout has fully cured. It will then absorb less dirt and water. Epoxy grout does not need this.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Fugabella Color KK101 3kg (and, for the tile adhesive, Kerakoll H40 Gel).

💡 Tip: Use two buckets: one for mixing and one with clean water for the sponge. That leaves less grout on the tiles and less haze to remove later.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Fugabella Color KK101 3 kg grout.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all grouts.

🔗 See also: Which grout and grout colour should I choose? (Tiles section) and How do I remove old grout and regrout? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Grouting a bathroom and unsure about the grout or colour? Sophie is happy to help.

You tile a wall by preparing a flat, sound and dust-free substrate, marking out a level starting line, applying the tile adhesive with a notched trowel and fixing the tiles from the bottom up with tile spacers or a levelling system.

What do you need?

• Tile adhesive suited to the tile and the substrate
• A primer for absorbent substrates, such as the Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT S081564327
• A notched trowel and a trowel, a bucket and a mixer
• Tile spacers or a levelling system
• A spirit level or cross-line laser, a straight batten and a pencil
• Tile cutting tools and, for large formats, a tile saw

Step by step:

1. Check the substrate. It must be flat, dry, sound and dust-free. Remove loose paint and wallpaper. Plasterboard, old tiles and concrete each have their own requirements; see also "How do I prepare the surface for tiling?".
2. Apply a primer if the substrate is absorbent, such as plaster or plasterboard. Let the primer dry as stated in the specifications.
3. Make a tiling plan. Lay the tiles out dry or mark them on the wall so that you do not end up with narrow strips at the sides or near the ceiling.
4. Mark a starting line. Screw a straight batten to the wall, level, at the height of the second row of tiles. You fit the bottom row last, so an uneven floor does not dictate the pattern.
5. Mix the tile adhesive using the mixing ratio on the packaging. Let it stand briefly if the specifications say so, then mix again for a moment.
6. Comb out the adhesive. Spread it with the flat side of the notched trowel, then comb it in one direction with the notched side. Choose the notch size to suit the tile format. Only cover as much area as you can tile within the open time.
7. Place the tiles with a slight sliding movement, working upwards from the starting line. Also back-butter large tiles with a thin layer of adhesive. Use tile spacers or levelling clips for even joints.
8. Check regularly with the spirit level, and now and then lift a tile to see whether the back is fully covered with adhesive.
9. Cut the edge tiles for corners, edges and pipes. We have a separate question on cutting and drilling tiles.
10. Remove adhesive from the joints while it is still wet. After the curing time, take down the batten, fit the bottom row and then grout the wall (see "How do I grout a bathroom?").

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Kerakoll H40 Gel.

💡 Tip: In a shower or around a bath, waterproof the wall first with a membrane and sealing tape. See "How do I apply a waterproofing membrane or sealing tape?".

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Kerakoll H40 Grey Gel 25 kg.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all tile adhesives.

🔗 See also: Which tile adhesive do I need? (Tiles section) and Which tools do I need to tile myself? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which tile adhesive suits your tile and wall? Sophie is happy to help.

You lay a tiled floor by making the substrate flat and clean, marking out a square tiling plan from the centre of the room, combing out the tile adhesive and laying the tiles flat with even joints using a levelling system.

What do you need?

• Floor tiles and tile adhesive
• A primer, such as the Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT S081564327
• A notched trowel, a mixer and buckets
• A levelling system or tile spacers
• A cross-line laser or chalk line and a spirit level
• Tile cutting tools or a tile saw
• Knee pads, such as the Protective knee pads KING STALCO PERFECT S-76210

Step by step:

1. Assess the substrate. A tiled floor needs a flat, dry and solid substrate. If the floor is uneven, level it first (see "How do I level a floor?"). A wooden floor must be stiff enough; get advice on this.
2. Clean the floor and apply primer if the substrate is absorbent. Let the primer dry as stated in the specifications.
3. Mark out the tiling plan. Find the centre of the room and mark two lines at right angles with a laser or chalk line. Lay a row of tiles out dry to see where you end up at the door and the walls.
4. Think about drainage in a bathroom or shower: the floor must slope towards the drain. You create that fall in the substrate, not in the adhesive layer.
5. Mix the tile adhesive using the mixing ratio on the packaging.
6. Comb out the adhesive over an area you can tile within the open time. Choose the notch size to suit the tile format, and back-butter large tiles as well.
7. Lay the tiles from the lines towards the door so that you do not box yourself in. Press them down with a sliding movement.
8. Fit the levelling system between the tiles. This keeps the edges flush and the joints the same width everywhere.
9. Leave perimeter joints open along walls, columns and pipes. You fill them later with sealant or cover them with a skirting board.
10. Do not walk on the floor until the adhesive has cured sufficiently. Then remove the clips and grout the floor (see "How do I grout a bathroom?").

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Kerakoll H40 Gel.

💡 Tip: Tiling over underfloor heating comes with extra points to watch for the adhesive and the heating-up period. Check in the specifications whether the adhesive is suitable for underfloor heating and, if in doubt, ask your installer for the heating-up schedule.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Raimondi RLS SOS levelling system kit.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our floor tiles.

🔗 See also: Can I lay tiles on underfloor heating? (Tiles section) and What do the slip resistance ratings R9, R10, R11 and R12 mean? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Laying a tiled floor and want to know which adhesive and tools you need? Sophie is happy to help.

You remove old tiles by first clearing and screening off the room, then using a demolition hammer or rotary hammer with a flat chisel to prise the tiles off at a shallow angle, and finally removing the adhesive residue. Check beforehand whether asbestos could be present.

Watch out for asbestos: in homes built or renovated before 1994, tiles, tile adhesive (especially black, bituminous adhesive), vinyl floor tiles and old sealant may contain asbestos. In doubt? Do not demolish, sand or drill, but have the material tested by a certified company first. Your municipality can tell you which rules apply.

What do you need?

• A rotary hammer or demolition hammer with a flat or wide SDS-plus chisel
• A hammer and hand chisel for small areas and edges
• Rip-off and scraping tools
• Protective covers and rubble sacks
• work gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask (FFP2 or FFP3), such as the FFP3 PURO
• A construction vacuum cleaner

Step by step:

1. Check for asbestos if the home or bathroom dates from before 1994. In doubt? Have it tested first.
2. Have services made safe. Turn off the water. If there are sockets, switches or electric underfloor heating in the wall or floor, have a registered installer isolate and disconnect them.
3. Clear the room and screen it off. Cover drains, the shower drain and any sanitaryware that stays, tape up doors and provide ventilation.
4. Put on your PPE. Tile shards are razor-sharp and a lot of fine dust is released.
5. Start at an edge or a broken tile. First break one tile with hammer and chisel so the chisel has something to get behind.
6. Prise the tiles off with the chisel at a shallow angle between tile and substrate. Use a low impact setting and do not press too hard, to damage the substrate as little as possible.
7. Want to reuse tiles? That only works if they are set in a weak adhesive layer or mortar bed. Prise them off carefully and expect some to break.
8. Remove rubble regularly in strong rubble sacks so you can keep working safely.
9. Remove the adhesive residue (see "How do I remove tile adhesive from a wall or floor?").
10. Assess the substrate before you tile again: repair holes and make the surface flat.

💡 Tip: Tiles on plasterboard or a weak substrate often come away together with the substrate. Replacing the board or plaster completely is then sometimes quicker and neater.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the RH26 SDS Plus rotary hammer (STALCO PERFECT).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our demolition and scraping tools.

🔗 See also: How do I remove tile adhesive from a wall or floor? (Tiles section) and How do I dispose of my old bathroom? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Want to know which chisel or tool suits your job? Sophie is happy to help.

You remove tile adhesive by first chipping or scraping off the thick residue mechanically and then sanding or grinding away the last unevenness with dust extraction. Check for asbestos beforehand, especially with black adhesive.

Watch out for asbestos: in homes built or renovated before 1994, tiles, tile adhesive (especially black, bituminous adhesive), vinyl floor tiles and old sealant may contain asbestos. In doubt? Do not demolish, sand or drill, but have the material tested by a certified company first. Your municipality can tell you which rules apply.

What do you need?

• A rotary hammer with a wide SDS-plus chisel or a floor scraper
• An angle grinder or wall grinder with a grinding disc and extraction hood
• A construction vacuum cleaner suitable for fine dust
• work gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask (FFP2 or FFP3), such as the FFP3 PURO

Step by step:

1. Find out what kind of adhesive it is. Grey or white cement-based adhesive is hard and brittle. Black adhesive may be bituminous and, in older homes, contain asbestos: have it tested first.
2. Screen off the room and provide ventilation. Sanding and grinding release a lot of fine dust, which may contain silica.
3. Chip off the thick residue with a wide chisel at a shallow angle. On a floor, a floor scraper is often quicker.
4. Soak soft residue if the adhesive is water-soluble, as some ready-mixed adhesives are: wet it, let it soak in and scrape it off.
5. Grind away the last residue with a grinder with extraction hood, connected to a construction vacuum cleaner. Work flat and keep the machine moving.
6. Check the flatness with a straightedge or spirit level. You can fill small irregularities; level out large differences with a levelling layer or plaster.
7. Make everything dust-free and apply a suitable primer before you tile or finish again.

Does the substrate need to be bare? Sometimes you can tile over a flat, well-bonded old adhesive layer. Get advice on this, and check in the technical specifications of the new tile adhesive whether it is suitable for that substrate.

💡 Tip: An old tiled wall of plasterboard, or a plaster layer covered completely in adhesive, is often quicker to replace than to strip bare.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 180 mm double-row diamond grinding disc (STALCO).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our grinding discs and brushes.

🔗 See also: How do I remove old tiles? (Tiles section) and Which disc should I use on an angle grinder? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which tool works fastest on your substrate? Sophie is happy to help.

You remove grout haze by polishing off a fresh haze while dry and treating a stubborn haze with a grout haze remover that is suitable for your tile, following the instructions, and then rinsing thoroughly with clean water.

What do you need?

• A grout haze remover, such as Fila Deterdek Pro
• A bucket, clean water, a floor sponge or soft scrubbing brush
• Chemical-resistant gloves and safety glasses
• For a floor, if you like, a wet and dry vacuum cleaner to pick up the dirty water

Step by step:

1. Wait until the grout has cured sufficiently. A cleaner on grout that is too fresh can damage it. The waiting time is given in the specifications of the grout and of the cleaner.
2. Try it dry first. A light, fresh haze can often be polished off with a dry, clean cloth.
3. Check whether the tile is acid-resistant. Most ceramic tiles can handle an acidic cleaner, but marble, travertine, limestone and some polished or coated tiles cannot always. Read what the cleaner and the tile manufacturer state and test in an inconspicuous spot.
4. Wet the joints with clean water so they absorb less cleaner.
5. Dilute the cleaner as instructed and apply it with a sponge or scrubbing brush.
6. Let it act briefly and scrub the haze loose, without letting the solution dry.
7. Rinse thoroughly with plenty of clean water and pick up the dirty water with a sponge or wet and dry vacuum cleaner.
8. Repeat if necessary and let the tiles dry. Want to seal the grout afterwards? Only do so once everything is dry.

What about vinegar? Household vinegar is often mentioned, but it is an acid that is not suitable for every tile or grout. A cleaner designed for grout haze has clear instructions for each surface.

💡 Tip: Prevention is easier: wash off the grout thoroughly with a clean, well wrung-out sponge and change the water often. See "How do I grout a bathroom?".

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Fila Deterdek Pro 1 litre cement haze remover.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view Fila Deterdek Pro.

🔗 See also: How do I clean and maintain ceramic tiles? (Tiles section) and How do I grout a bathroom? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure whether a cleaner is suitable for your tile? Sophie is happy to help.

You renew grout by removing the old grout with a grout scraper or multi-tool to about two thirds of the tile thickness, making the joints dust-free and slightly damp, and then regrouting with a grout suited to the joint width.

What do you need?

• A grout scraper, such as the Raimondi joint scraper, or a multi-tool with a grout removal blade
• A vacuum cleaner and a brush
• Grout, a rubber grout float and a sponge
• Masking tape to protect delicate sanitaryware
• Safety glasses, gloves and a dust mask

Step by step:

1. Assess the grout. If only a few joints are discoloured, cleaning is often enough. If they are loose, cracked or full of mould, renew them. If tiles themselves are coming loose or the wall behind is wet, deal with that cause first.
2. Remove the sealant joints in corners and along sanitaryware (see "How do I remove old sealant and sealant residue?").
3. Scrape out the old grout to about two thirds of the tile thickness so the new grout has enough grip. Work calmly and keep the tool straight in the joint so you do not damage the tile edges.
4. Make the joints dust-free with a brush and vacuum cleaner.
5. Dampen the joints slightly if the grout instructions say so. This stops the substrate drawing the mixing water out too quickly.
6. Regrout: mix the grout, apply it diagonally, wash off and remove the haze. The steps are in "How do I grout a bathroom?".
7. Reseal corners and junctions once the grout has cured.
8. Protect the new grout if you wish with a joint protector such as Fila Fuga Proof, following the instructions.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Fugabella Color KK101 3kg.

💡 Tip: Choose the same or a slightly darker grout colour if you are only renewing part of the joints: light new grout next to old grout soon stands out.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Raimondi joint scraper.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all grouts.

🔗 See also: How do I grout a bathroom? (Tiles section) and How do I keep grout clean, and should I seal it? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Renewing grout and unsure which grout suits your joint width? Sophie is happy to help.

You seal a bathroom neatly by making the joint clean, grease-free and dry, masking the edges if you like, applying the sealant in one smooth movement with a caulking gun and smoothing it straight away with a sealant spatula. Choose sanitary silicone sealant for wet areas.

What do you need?

• Sanitary silicone sealant, such as Sanitary silicone Transparent STALCO PERFECT S-64794 or the neutral version Neutral sanitary silicone Transparent STALCO PERFECT S-64800
• A caulking gun and a snap-off knife
• A sealant spatula, such as the Silicone spatulas STALCO PERFECT S-75276
• Masking tape
• Degreaser or methylated spirits, a clean cloth and a plant sprayer with water and a drop of washing-up liquid

Step by step:

1. Choose the right sealant. Which sealant goes where and which colour suits, is explained in our question "Which sealant should I use in the bathroom, and which colour?". Note: some natural stone and metals do not tolerate acetic silicone sealant; choose a neutral sealant and check the specifications.
2. Remove old sealant completely (see "How do I remove old sealant and sealant residue?"). New sealant does not bond well to old sealant.
3. Make the joint grease-free and dry. Let a joint dry thoroughly after cleaning or showering.
4. Load the bath or shower tray. Fill a bath with water before sealing the joint along it, so that the joint is already at its widest.
5. Mask the edges with tape at an equal distance from the joint if you do not want to seal freehand.
6. Cut the nozzle at an angle with an opening slightly smaller than the joint, and put the cartridge in the caulking gun.
7. Apply the sealant in one smooth movement with even pressure, holding the nozzle at an angle in the joint. Work outwards from a corner.
8. Smooth the sealant with a sealant spatula. A fine mist of soapy water stops the spatula sticking to the sealant. Do not get soapy water into the joint itself, as the sealant will then bond less well.
9. Remove the tape straight away while the sealant is still wet, pulling it away from the sealant at an angle.
10. Let the sealant cure before you use the shower or bath. How long that takes is stated in the specifications.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for application temperature, skin formation time, curing time and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Sanitary silicone Transparent STALCO PERFECT S-64794.

💡 Tip: Practise the movement first on a piece of cardboard or an old tile. An even pace matters more than speed.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the STALCO PERFECT S-64800 neutral sanitary silicone.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our sanitary silicones.

🔗 See also: How do I remove old sealant and sealant residue? (Tiles section) and Which sealant should I use in the bathroom, and which colour? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which sealant or colour suits your bathroom? Sophie is happy to help.

You remove old sealant by cutting along both sides of the bead and pulling it out, then scraping off or dissolving the thin residue with a silicone remover, and finally degreasing the joint and letting it dry.

What do you need?

• A sharp snap-off knife or sealant remover tool and a plastic scraper
• A silicone remover, such as Fila Zero Sil
• Degreaser or methylated spirits and clean cloths
• Gloves

Step by step:

1. Cut into the sealant along both edges, as close as possible to the tile and sanitaryware. Hold the knife flat to avoid scratching enamel, acrylic or plastic.
2. Pull out the bead. It often comes away in one long strip.
3. Scrape off the residue with a plastic scraper.
4. Dissolve the last thin residue with a silicone remover as instructed, then scrape it off. Test the product in an inconspicuous spot first if you are unsure about the material of the bath or shower tray.
5. Remove any mould that was behind the sealant (see "How do I remove mould from a wall, ceiling or sealant joint?").
6. Degrease the joint and let it dry completely, behind the joint too. Only then reseal (see "How do I seal my bathroom neatly?").

Watch out with very old sealant: in buildings from before 1994, old, hard sealant around window frames or facade joints may contain asbestos. Bathroom silicones are usually more recent, but if in doubt, have the sealant tested first.

💡 Tip: Use a new blade and change it often: a blunt blade slips more easily and causes scratches.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Fila Zero Sil silicone remover.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view Fila Zero Sil.

🔗 See also: How do I seal my bathroom neatly? (Tiles section) and How do I replace the sealant joints in my bathroom? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Removing old sealant and unsure whether a product is suitable for your bath or shower tray? Sophie is happy to help.

A thermostatic tap automatically keeps the temperature you set constant; with a mixer tap, you control the temperature yourself with one lever or two handles.

• Thermostatic tap: safe and comfortable in the shower. Often with a temperature limiter, so the water does not suddenly get too hot.
• Single-lever mixer: easy to use, common on washbasins.
• Surface-mounted or concealed: a concealed tap sits mostly inside the wall and must be installed before tiling.

💡 Tip: Choosing a concealed tap? Order the concealed part in good time, because it has to go in before you tile.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Zen thermostatic shower mixer (brushed copper).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our shower taps.

🔗 See also: How do I replace a shower head or shower set? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I descale and maintain my tap? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Deciding between a thermostatic tap and a mixer tap? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

A tap stays looking good if you wipe it dry after use and clean it now and then with a soft cloth and a mild cleaner; descale the aerator separately.

1. Wipe the tap dry with a soft cloth after use.
2. Clean it with lukewarm water and a little soap. Do not use abrasives or aggressive descalers: they can damage the finish, especially on black, gold or brushed taps.
3. Unscrew the aerator, soak it in a little vinegar or descaler, rinse it and screw it back on.
4. Always follow the manufacturer's care instructions.

💡 Tip: Hard water? Descale the aerator every few months: the flow stays smooth and the tap splashes less.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our taps.

🔗 See also: My tap is dripping. What can I do? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I clean and descale my rain shower? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about caring for your tap? Sophie is happy to help.

A dripping tap is usually caused by a worn cartridge or seal; you can often replace it yourself with a matching spare part.

1. Close the angle valves under the washbasin, or the main stopcock.
2. Find the brand and type of the tap: on the tap, in the manual or on your invoice.
3. Replace the cartridge or seal with a part that fits that type.
4. Not sure? Ask a plumber to do it.

💡 Tip: Put the plug in the washbasin before opening the tap: then no small part can fall into the drain.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view spare parts for taps.

🔗 See also: Where can I find spare parts for my tap, shower, toilet or bath? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I replace a washbasin tap? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for the right part for your tap? Sophie is happy to help.

You can find spare parts in our webshop by product group: for taps, concealed cisterns, shower enclosures and baths.

• Taps: spare parts for taps.
• Concealed cisterns: spare parts for concealed cisterns.
• Shower enclosures: spare parts for shower enclosures.
• Baths: spare parts for baths.

💡 Tip: First look up the brand and type number of your product: on the product itself, in the manual or on your invoice.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 200 cm metal shower hose.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our sanitaryware.

🔗 See also: My tap is dripping. What can I do? (Sanitaryware section) and My concealed cistern keeps running. What now? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Can't find the right spare part? Sophie is happy to help.

A rain shower stays free of limescale if you regularly rub the rubber nozzles with your fingers and descale the shower head now and then with a mild descaler or vinegar.

1. Rub the nozzles every week so limescale comes loose.
2. Descale the shower head once a month, or more often with hard water: soak it in vinegar solution or descaler, or tie a bag around it if it is fixed.
3. Then rinse thoroughly with warm water.
4. Do not use abrasives, and follow the manufacturer's care instructions.

💡 Tip: Run cold water through the shower head briefly after showering: this reduces limescale build-up.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Virgo rain shower with arm (chrome).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our overhead showers.

🔗 See also: How do I descale and maintain my tap? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I keep my glass shower screen clean? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about your rain shower? Sophie is happy to help.

A walk-in shower with a linear drain gives an open, step-free bathroom; a shower tray is quicker to install and easy to make watertight.

• Shower tray: quick to install and easy to seal. Available in square, rectangular, quadrant and pentagonal shapes.
• Walk-in shower: a glass screen without a door. Spacious and easy to keep clean.
• Linear drain: water runs to one drain. The floor slopes in one direction, so you can use large tiles.
• Shower enclosure: a complete solution with doors, optionally with a tray.

💡 Tip: Choosing a linear drain? It must be built in before tiling, together with the waterproofing.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Tako 60 linear drain (chrome).

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment to discuss your choice.

🔗 See also: What size shower enclosure or shower tray do I need? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I create a shower without a step? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Deciding between a shower tray and a walk-in shower? Anna is happy to think along with you.

Measure the available space and the position of the drain; common sizes for shower trays and enclosures are 80×80, 90×90 and 90×120 cm.

1. Measure the width and depth of the shower area, wall to wall.
2. Note where the drain is.
3. Choose a shape: square, rectangular, quadrant or pentagonal.
4. Check how much space a hinged door needs to open, or choose a sliding door.
5. Check the exact dimensions and adjustment range of the enclosure in the product information.

💡 Tip: A quadrant enclosure saves space in a small bathroom.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Jota 90 × 90 × 195 corner shower enclosure (chrome).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our shower enclosures.

🔗 See also: Shower tray, walk-in shower or linear drain: which suits me? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I keep my glass shower screen clean? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which shower enclosure fits your bathroom? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

A glass shower screen stays clear if you squeegee it dry after every shower; remove limescale with a mild descaler that is suitable for glass.

1. Squeegee the glass dry after showering.
2. Clean the glass weekly with a soft cloth or sponge and a mild cleaner.
3. Remove limescale with a mild descaler or vinegar, and rinse well.
4. Do not use scouring pads or abrasives: they scratch the glass.

💡 Tip: Leave the door open for a while after showering, so the enclosure dries quickly.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the STALCO Mirror and Glass Cleaner 750 ml.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our shower enclosures.

🔗 See also: How do I clean and descale my rain shower? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I prevent damp and mould in my bathroom? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about your shower screen? Sophie is happy to help.

A wall-hung toilet is mounted on a concealed cistern and leaves the floor free; a floor-standing close-coupled toilet stands on the floor, with the cistern visible on the pan.

• Wall-hung toilet with concealed cistern: sleek and easy to clean. The height is set during installation. You flush with a flush plate.
• Close-coupled toilet: easy to install on an existing connection.
• Waste: check whether your waste pipe comes out of the wall or the floor.

💡 Tip: A concealed cistern must be installed before the wall is finished: include it in your planning.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view set C14: Aqua 50 WC frame with City wall-hung toilet and seat.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our concealed cistern sets.

🔗 See also: How do I renovate my toilet, from floor-standing to wall-hung? (Renovation section) and What is a rimless toilet? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Deciding between a wall-hung and a floor-standing toilet? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

A rimless toilet has no flushing rim on the inside, so dirt and limescale cannot build up there; that makes it more hygienic and easier to clean.

• No hidden rim, so everything can be reached with the toilet brush.
• Less cleaning product needed.
• Available as wall-hung and floor-standing toilets.

💡 Tip: Combine a rimless toilet with a quick-release soft-close seat: then you can also clean the hinges properly.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the rimless City Oval CleanOn wall-hung toilet.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our rimless wall-hung toilets.

🔗 See also: Wall-hung or floor-standing toilet: what is the difference? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I choose a toilet seat that fits? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Questions about rimless toilets? Sophie is happy to help.

A toilet seat fits when its shape and size match your pan and the hinge holes are the right distance apart; so measure the length, width and hinge spacing.

1. Measure the length: from the centre of the hinge holes to the front of the pan.
2. Measure the widest point of the pan.
3. Measure the distance between the two hinge holes, centre to centre.
4. Compare with the dimensions in the product information, or choose the seat that belongs to your toilet.

💡 Tip: A soft-close seat closes quietly; with a quick-release feature you can easily remove it for cleaning.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Senator Duroplast toilet seat (Cersanit Essentials).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our toilet seats.

🔗 See also: How do I replace a toilet seat? (Sanitaryware section) and What is a rimless toilet? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which toilet seat fits? Sophie is happy to help.

A constantly running concealed cistern is usually caused by a dirty or worn flush valve seal or fill valve; you can reach them behind the flush plate.

1. Remove the flush plate from the wall.
2. Close the stop valve inside the cistern.
3. Clean the seal, or replace the seal or fill valve.
4. Use parts that match the brand and type of your concealed cistern.

💡 Tip: Take a photo of the inside and note the brand and type: that makes it quicker to find the right part.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view spare parts for concealed cisterns.

🔗 See also: Where can I find spare parts for my tap, shower, toilet or bath? (Sanitaryware section) and Wall-hung or floor-standing toilet: what is the difference? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for the right part for your concealed cistern? Sophie is happy to help.

Choose a vanity unit based on the available width, the position of the water supply and waste, and how much storage you want; a wall-hung unit leaves the floor free.

• Width: measure the wall and leave room for doors, windows and a towel rail.
• Depth: leave enough space to move around in front of the unit.
• Connections: check where the water supply and waste come out of the wall.
• Complete: a bathroom furniture set includes the unit and basin, often with a mirror or mirror cabinet.

💡 Tip: In a vanity unit, drawers are often more practical than doors: you can see everything at a glance.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Ovida 60 washbasin cabinet (white).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our bathroom furniture.

🔗 See also: What types of washbasins are there? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I hang a washbasin or bathroom cabinet? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which vanity unit fits your space? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

The most popular washbasins are vanity basins, countertop basins (vessel basins) and wall-hung basins, optionally with a pedestal or semi-pedestal.

• Vanity basin: fits exactly on a vanity unit.
• Countertop basin: a bowl on a worktop. Choose a tall tap or a wall-mounted tap.
• Wall-hung basin: fixed directly to the wall, ideal for a small room.
• Pedestal or semi-pedestal: neatly hides the waste under a wall-hung basin.

💡 Tip: A countertop basin needs a taller tap, so the water flows above the rim of the bowl.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the City 47 oval countertop washbasin.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our washbasins.

🔗 See also: Which bathroom vanity unit suits my bathroom? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I replace a washbasin tap? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which washbasin suits your bathroom? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

With a freestanding bath, consider the space around it, the load-bearing capacity of the floor, the position of the waste and a matching freestanding bath tap.

• Space: leave enough room around the bath to clean it and to get in and out.
• Floor: a full bath is heavy. If in doubt, have the floor's load capacity checked.
• Waste: the waste sits under the bath and must come out in the right place in the floor.
• Tap: choose a floor-standing bath tap, or a wall-mounted tap.

💡 Tip: Decide where the bath goes before the floor is finished: then the waste and water pipes will line up exactly.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Crea Slim 170 × 80 cm freestanding bathtub.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our freestanding baths.

🔗 See also: What types of baths are there? (Sanitaryware section) and In what order should I renovate my bathroom? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Dreaming of a freestanding bath? Anna is happy to think along with you.

Popular baths include the rectangular built-in bath, the asymmetric corner bath and the freestanding bath; with a bath screen you can also shower in the bath.

• Rectangular bath: the classic, against a wall or in an alcove.
• Asymmetric bath: saves space in a corner, often with a wider showering area.
• Freestanding bath: an eye-catcher in the middle of the room.
• Finishing: a bath panel finishes the side, and a bath screen keeps the water in when you shower in the bath.

💡 Tip: Also measure the door opening and stairs: the bath has to fit into your bathroom.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Balinea 170 × 70 rectangular bathtub.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all our baths.

🔗 See also: What should I consider when choosing a freestanding bath? (Sanitaryware section) and What size shower enclosure or shower tray do I need? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which bath fits your bathroom? Sophie is happy to think along with you.

Yes, in our accessible bathroom category you will find grab rails, frames and furniture accessories for a safe and accessible bathroom.

• Grab rails: extra support at the toilet, shower and bath.
• Frames: for sanitaryware and cisterns.
• Bathroom furniture accessories: for an accessible layout.

💡 Tip: Also consider a step-free walk-in shower and a non-slip floor (R10 or higher).

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the raised 60 wall grab bar for the toilet.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our accessible sanitaryware.

🔗 See also: How do I create a shower without a step? (Renovation section) and Wall-hung or floor-standing toilet: what is the difference? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Planning an accessible bathroom? Anna is happy to think along with you.

You can replace a shower head or shower hose without tools: unscrew the old one, check that the new one has a standard connection and hand-tighten it with a new rubber washer. For a new slide rail, you usually drill new holes.

What do you need?

• A new shower head, shower hose or shower set; for a rain shower see rain showers
• New rubber washers (often supplied)
• For a slide rail: a tile or masonry drill bit, plugs and screws, masking tape and sanitary silicone sealant
• A cloth and, if needed, water pump pliers with soft jaws

Step by step:

1. Turn off the tap and let the hose drain.
2. Unscrew the shower head from the hose, anticlockwise. If it is stuck because of limescale, use pliers with a cloth in between to avoid scratches.
3. Replace the hose the same way: the end with the conical nut usually goes on the shower head, the other end on the tap. Check what the manufacturer states.
4. Fit new washers in the nuts. An old or missing washer is the most common cause of leaks.
5. Hand-tighten everything. Overtightening damages the washers and the thread.
6. Replacing a slide rail or rain shower? If the new one fits the old holes, reuse them. If not, mark the new holes, drill into the tile (see "How do I cut or drill tiles?") and fill the old holes or finish them with sealant.
7. Check with water that everything stays dry.

Note: a rain shower with a new concealed mixer or relocated pipes requires changes to the water supply. Have an installer do that if in doubt.

💡 Tip: Unscrew the shower head a few times a year and soak it in descaler. The nozzles stay open and it lasts longer.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Virgo 3-function shower set with fixed grip (chrome).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our shower sets.

🔗 See also: What is the difference between a thermostatic tap and a mixer tap? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I clean and descale my rain shower? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure whether a shower set fits your tap or old holes? Sophie is happy to help.

You replace a toilet seat by unscrewing the fixing nuts under or behind the bowl, removing the old seat, fitting the new seat with the hinges supplied into the holes and tightening the nuts evenly.

Which seat fits your toilet is explained in "How do I choose a toilet seat that fits?". Here you can read how to fit it.

What do you need?

• A new toilet seat with fixing kit
• A screwdriver or spanner, depending on the fixing
• Penetrating oil for seized nuts, if needed
• Gloves and a cleaning product

Step by step:

1. Look at the fixing. On most toilets the nuts are under the bowl. On a wall-hung or closed-rim toilet there is often a fixing you tighten from above, sometimes behind a cover cap.
2. Unscrew the old seat. Hold the bolt at the top and unscrew the nut underneath. If it is stuck, use penetrating oil and let it soak in.
3. Clean the bowl, especially around the fixing holes.
4. Fit the hinges of the new seat as described in the instructions.
5. Place the seat on the bowl and align it: the seat must line up with the front and sides of the bowl.
6. Tighten the nuts evenly. Firmly, but not too hard: ceramic can crack.
7. Test the seat and the soft-close, and retighten the nuts after a few weeks.

💡 Tip: Before ordering, measure the distance between the fixing holes and the length of the bowl from the holes to the front. Then you can be sure the seat fits.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Mesto Square Slim Duroplast soft-close toilet seat (Cersanit Essentials).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our toilet seats.

🔗 See also: How do I choose a toilet seat that fits? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I replace a floor-standing toilet? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which toilet seat fits your toilet? Sophie is happy to help.

You replace a trap by putting a bucket under the washbasin, unscrewing the nuts of the old trap, checking the size of the waste and fitting the new trap hand-tight with new seals, then testing for leaks.

What do you need?

• A new trap in the right size and, if needed, a new waste plug for the washbasin
• A bucket, a cloth and, if needed, water pump pliers
• Gloves

Step by step:

1. Put a bucket under the trap and have a cloth ready. There is always water in the trap.
2. Unscrew the nuts: first the nut under the waste plug, then the nut at the wall. This usually works by hand.
3. Clean the waste and check the size of the plug and the wall connection. The size is stated on the new trap.
4. Assemble the new trap as described in the instructions, with the rubbers and rings supplied facing the right way.
5. Fit the trap first to the plug and then to the wall. If a pipe is too long, cut it straight to length and deburr the edge.
6. Hand-tighten the nuts. Do not tighten plastic nuts with pliers.
7. Test for leaks: fill the washbasin, pull out the plug and run a dry piece of kitchen paper along all the connections.

Is the waste leaking at the plug itself? Then the problem is often the seal of the waste plug. Replace it at the same time.

💡 Tip: Take a photo of the old trap before unscrewing it. You will then see exactly how the parts fitted together.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Inverto Oval washbasin siphon (chrome).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our traps.

🔗 See also: How do I unblock a drain or washbasin? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I replace a washbasin tap? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which trap suits your washbasin and waste? Sophie is happy to help.

You can usually unblock a blocked washbasin or shower without chemicals: remove hair and dirt from the waste plug or drain, clean the trap and then, if needed, use a plunger or a drain snake.

What do you need?

• A bucket, a cloth and gloves
• A plunger or a drain snake
• If needed, a new trap or waste plug; for a linear shower drain see linear drain accessories

Step by step:

1. Take out the waste plug or grate and remove hair and dirt. With a washbasin, the blockage is often right here.
2. Clean the trap. Put a bucket underneath, unscrew the trap, rinse it and refit it (see "How do I replace the trap under a washbasin?").
3. Clean a linear drain or shower drain. Take out the grate and the insert or odour trap and rinse them clean.
4. Use a plunger. Cover the overflow with a wet cloth, place the plunger over the drain and pump firmly a few times.
5. Use a drain snake if the blockage is further down. Carefully turn the snake into the pipe and back out again.
6. Flush with plenty of hot (not boiling) water.
7. Still blocked, or are several drains slow at the same time? Then the blockage is probably further along in the sewer. Call in a drain-clearing company.

Prefer not to use drain cleaner? Aggressive chemical drain cleaners can damage pipes, plastic parts and your skin. If you do use them, follow the instructions and never mix different products.

💡 Tip: A hair catcher in the shower and washbasin waste prevents most blockages.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our traps. Plungers and drain snakes are not currently in our range.

🔗 See also: How do I replace the trap under a washbasin? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I renew or move the waste pipes in my bathroom or kitchen? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure whether your waste plug or trap needs replacing? Sophie is happy to help.

You replace a washbasin tap by closing the angle valves, disconnecting the flexible hoses and the fixing nut under the basin, fitting the new tap with the fixing kit supplied and reconnecting the hoses to the valves hand-tight plus a little extra.

What do you need?

• A new washbasin tap with flexible connection hoses
• New angle valves or tap connectors, if needed
• A spanner, a basin wrench or water pump pliers, a bucket and a cloth
• Thread seal if you replace the valves

Step by step:

1. Close the angle valves under the washbasin. If there are none or they do not close, turn off the main stopcock.
2. Open the tap to release the pressure.
3. Disconnect the hoses from the valves. Put a bucket underneath.
4. Unscrew the fixing nut under the tap hole and remove the old tap. Clean the tap hole.
5. Fit the hoses into the new tap, as described in the instructions, before placing it in the hole.
6. Position the tap with the rubber ring and fixing kit supplied and tighten it straight.
7. Connect the hoses to the valves: hot on the left, cold on the right. Tighten by hand and then a little further with a spanner.
8. Open the valves slowly and check all connections for leaks.
9. Flush the tap and then clean the aerator.

Note: do pipes need to be relocated or new valves soldered or pressed, or does the tap have an electrical connection? Have an installer do that.

💡 Tip: Before buying, check the height and reach of the tap: a tall tap on a shallow basin causes splashing.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Luna washbasin tap (chrome).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our washbasin taps.

🔗 See also: How do I replace an angle valve? (Building materials section) and My tap is dripping. What can I do? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which tap suits your washbasin? Sophie is happy to help.

You hang a washbasin or bathroom cabinet by measuring the height and the waste and water connections, using a detector to check where you must not drill, marking the holes level and hanging the unit with fixings that suit your wall.

Which plug or fixing suits your wall is explained in "Which wall plug or fixing should I use for a vanity unit or in plasterboard?".

What do you need?

• A wall-hung washbasin or a washbasin cabinet
• A detector, such as the Multifunction wall detector WDP100M
• A drill with masonry or tile drill bits
• Plugs and screws or fixings for plasterboard and cavity walls, or the studs supplied
• A spirit level, a tape measure and masking tape
• Sanitary silicone sealant for the junction with the wall

Step by step:

1. Decide on the height. Check the installation instructions and take into account the users, the tap and any mirror above.
2. Check the connections. Are the waste and angle valves in a position that suits the unit and the trap? If pipes need to be moved, have that done first.
3. Locate pipes and cables with a detector. Never drill directly above, below or beside a socket, switch or pipe.
4. Assess the wall. Brick and concrete are strong. A plasterboard wall needs reinforcement or a batten behind the board; without it, a wall-hung unit with basin is too heavy.
5. Mark the holes with the spirit level. Put tape on the tile to stop the drill slipping.
6. Drill the holes through the tile without hammer action first, then into the wall (see "How do I cut or drill tiles?").
7. Insert the plugs or studs and hang the unit. Check again that everything is level before tightening.
8. Fit the washbasin, tap and trap and connect the hoses to the angle valves.
9. Test for leaks and then seal the junction between basin and wall with sanitary silicone sealant.

Note: have a cabinet with lighting or a socket connected by a registered electrician.

💡 Tip: Fit the tap and trap to the washbasin before hanging it. That is much easier than working under a wall-hung unit.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Ovida 60 washbasin cabinet (white).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our washbasin cabinets.

🔗 See also: Which wall plug or fixing should I use for a vanity unit or in plasterboard? (Building materials section) and Which bathroom vanity unit suits my bathroom? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure whether your wall can carry a cabinet with washbasin? Sophie is happy to help.

You replace a floor-standing toilet by turning off the water supply, emptying and unscrewing the bowl, cleaning and covering the drain, and placing the new toilet straight on the drain with a suitable connector, fixing it, connecting it and sealing it.

Want to change from a floor-standing to a wall-hung toilet? That is a bigger renovation; read "How do I renovate my toilet, from floor-standing to wall-hung?".

What do you need?

• A new close-coupled toilet or floor-standing toilet from toilets, with fixing kit
• A suitable waste connector (straight, bend or offset) and, if needed, a new angle valve and flexible supply hose
• A spanner, screwdriver, sponge, bucket and gloves
• A masonry or tile drill bit if the fixing holes are in a different place
• Sanitary silicone sealant

Step by step:

1. Measure the waste. Check whether the waste is in the floor or the wall and measure the distance from the wall to the centre of the waste. That way you choose a toilet and connector that fit.
2. Turn off the water at the valve and flush to empty the cistern. Sponge the last water out of the cistern and bowl.
3. Disconnect the supply hose and unscrew the cistern and bowl from the floor.
4. Remove the bowl and cover the waste straight away with a plug or cloth against sewer smells and falling parts.
5. Clean the floor and the waste and remove old sealant and the old connector.
6. Fit the connector and the new toilet. Check that it is straight and level.
7. Fix the bowl with the fixing kit. Tighten evenly: overtightening can crack the bowl.
8. Fit the cistern and connect the supply hose to the angle valve.
9. Test: open the valve, flush a few times and check the connections for leaks.
10. Seal the base with sanitary silicone sealant. You may leave a small gap at the back, so that you notice a leak quickly.

Note: have a toilet with electrical functions, such as a shower toilet, connected by a registered electrician. If the waste needs to be moved, call in an installer.

💡 Tip: Lift a toilet with two people and put a blanket on the floor: ceramic is heavy and breaks easily.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the President WC Compact close-coupled toilet with seat (Cersanit Essentials).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our close-coupled toilets.

🔗 See also: How do I renovate my toilet, from floor-standing to wall-hung? (Renovation section) and How do I replace a toilet seat? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which toilet suits your waste? Sophie is happy to help.

A bathroom renovation usually goes like this: design and choose materials, strip out, install pipes and concealed parts, waterproof, tile, fit the sanitaryware and furniture, and finally seal.

1. Design your bathroom, for example in the Planning Lab, and put all products on a project list.
2. Strip out the old bathroom and prepare the surfaces.
3. Install the pipes and waste, and fit concealed parts such as the cistern, concealed tap and linear drain.
4. Level the floor and walls and waterproof the wet areas.
5. Tile and grout the floor and walls.
6. Fit the toilet, washbasin, vanity unit, taps and shower screen.
7. Finally, seal all joints.

💡 Tip: Order the concealed parts first: they must be in place before the tiler starts.

➡️ Next step: Click here to create a project list and request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: Which materials do I need for a complete bathroom? (Renovation section) and What can I do myself during a renovation, and what should I leave to a professional? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Renovating your bathroom and not sure where to start? Anna is happy to think along with you.

For a complete bathroom you need tiles and tiling materials, sanitaryware with taps and concealed parts, bathroom furniture and accessories; put everything on one project list so you do not forget anything.

• Tiling: tiles, tile adhesive, grout, primer, sealant and trims.
• Toilet: concealed cistern, toilet pan, flush plate and toilet seat.
• Washbasin: vanity unit or washbasin, tap, siphon and mirror.
• Shower or bath: shower tray or linear drain, shower screen, shower and tap set or bath.
• Finishing touches: bathroom accessories such as hooks and a toilet roll holder.

💡 Tip: With a project list you can request everything at once as a project quote.

➡️ Next step: Click here to create a project list and request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: In what order should I renovate my bathroom? (Renovation section) and What does a renovation cost? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Need help with the materials list for your bathroom? Anna will be happy to explain it to you personally.

The cost of a renovation depends on the job, the options you choose and the materials; soon you will be able to work it out yourself with the Saniso service configurator.

• Choose your job: for example an extension, a new floor, a kitchen, a bathroom, tiling or a single task.
• Tick your options: put together exactly what you want done.
• Additional and reduced work: add extra work or leave out parts you will do yourself.
• Instant overview: you see straight away what your choices mean.

The service configurator is currently being built. As soon as it is online, you will find the link here.

💡 Tip: Put the materials for your renovation on a project list now, so you have everything at hand later.

➡️ Next step: Would you like to know roughly what your renovation will cost? Click here to request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: How do I plan a renovation, such as a kitchen, floor or extension? (Renovation section) and In what order should I renovate my bathroom? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Want to know what your renovation will cost? Anna is happy to think along with you.

A tiled shower is made watertight with a waterproofing system under the tiles: a liquid membrane or waterproofing sheet, with sealing tape in the corners and collars around pipes and the drain.

1. Make the surface flat, clean and dry, and apply the system's primer.
2. Apply sealing tape in all corners and over joints, and collars around pipes and the drain.
3. Apply the waterproofing in the prescribed thickness, usually in two coats.
4. Let everything dry as instructed, then tile.
5. Seal the junctions of the shower tray or screen with sanitary silicone.

How to apply the membrane, sealing tape and sleeves step by step is explained in "How do I apply a waterproofing membrane or sealing tape?".

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for thickness per coat, drying time between coats, overlap, coverage and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us.

💡 Tip: Use the components of one waterproofing system and follow the manufacturer's instructions: that way they work well together.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Aquastop Nanoflex.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment to discuss your shower.

🔗 See also: How do I apply a waterproofing membrane or sealing tape? (Renovation section) and How do I create a shower without a step? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Waterproofing a shower and unsure how to go about it? Anna is happy to think along with you.

Start with a floor plan showing the fixed points, such as the waste pipe, windows and doors; then position the toilet, shower and washbasin with enough space to move around, and create your design in 3D in the Planning Lab.

1. Measure the room and draw a floor plan with windows, doors, sloping walls and the position of the waste pipe.
2. Decide what you want: a walk-in shower or bath, a wall-hung toilet, a single or double vanity unit and plenty of storage.
3. Place the toilet close to the soil stack if possible: the toilet waste is the largest and the hardest to move.
4. Leave enough free space in front of and beside the toilet, washbasin and shower.
5. Create your design in 3D in the Planning Lab and get ideas in the Design Lab.
6. Put all the products on a project list.

💡 Tip: Think about sockets, lighting and ventilation too. They need to be in place before the walls are closed; have the electrics installed by a registered electrician. You will find more tips in our guide to planning a bathroom renovation.

➡️ Next step: Click here to design your space in 3D in the Planning Lab.

🔗 See also: What is the Design Lab? (Products section) and In what order should I renovate my bathroom? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Designing your bathroom and unsure about the layout? Anna is happy to think along with you.

A small bathroom looks bigger with light colours, large tiles, a big mirror, wall-hung sanitaryware and a glass walk-in shower without a step.

• Light, large tiles: fewer grout lines give a calm look. Browse our wall tiles.
• Big mirror: a mirror or mirror cabinet reflects the light, and a mirror cabinet adds storage too.
• Wall-hung sanitaryware: with a wall-hung toilet and a wall-hung vanity unit the floor stays visible.
• Glass walk-in shower: a walk-in shower in clear glass keeps the room open.
• Niches: a niche in the stud wall provides storage without getting in the way.

💡 Tip: Run the same floor tile into the shower, or choose the same colour for floor and walls. This makes the room calmer and larger.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the large Foggy Night White Matt Rect 60 × 120 tile.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment and get inspired in our showroom.

🔗 See also: Which tile size suits a small bathroom? (Tiles section) and What lighting should I choose for my bathroom? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Want to make the most of a small bathroom? Anna is happy to think along with you.

You prevent damp and mould with good ventilation, watertight wet zones and sound sealant joints: make sure humid air can escape quickly and that no water gets behind the tiles.

• Ventilation: an extractor fan or a window that opens, and a gap or grille in the door for fresh air. Have an electric fan connected by a registered electrician.
• Watertight wet zone: waterproof the shower under the tiles with a waterproofing system.
• Moisture-resistant materials: use water-resistant plasterboard or building boards in the bathroom.
• Sound sealant joints: seal joints with sanitary silicone and replace sealant that comes loose or discolours.
• After showering: let the fan run a little longer and squeegee the walls and floor.

💡 Tip: During the renovation, a building dehumidifier helps remove moisture from the room. Only tile and seal once the substrate, plaster and adhesive are dry enough according to the instructions.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Knauf H2 water-resistant plasterboard 2600 × 600 × 12.5 mm.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment to discuss your plans.

🔗 See also: How do I remove mould from a wall, ceiling or sealant joint? (Renovation section) and How do I waterproof a shower? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Dealing with damp in the bathroom and want to tackle it properly during the renovation? Anna is happy to think along with you.

Combine general ceiling lighting with good light at the mirror, such as an LED mirror, and perhaps some mood lighting; choose fittings that are suitable for damp rooms and have them connected by a registered electrician.

• General lighting: ceiling lights or recessed spotlights for the whole room.
• Light at the mirror: an LED bathroom mirror or an illuminated mirror cabinet gives good light for shaving and make-up.
• Mood lighting: dimmable light or lighting in a niche creates a relaxing atmosphere.
• Moisture: choose fittings with an IP rating that suits their position near the shower and bath. Your electrician knows which rating is needed where.
• Connecting: never work on the electrics yourself; have a registered electrician do it.

💡 Tip: Light only above the mirror casts shadows on your face. Light from the front or the sides, as with an LED mirror, works better.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 600 × 800 mm LED bathroom mirror.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our mirrors.

🔗 See also: How do I hang a mirror, with or without drilling? (Building materials section) and How can I make a small bathroom look bigger? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure about the lighting in your new bathroom? Anna is happy to think along with you.

You create a shower without a step by laying the floor to a fall towards a linear drain, installing the drain low enough and waterproofing the wet zone; the water then drains away without flowing into the bathroom.

1. Check the floor build-up: is there enough height for the drain, the fall and the waste pipe? Sometimes the floor needs raising or the shower floor needs to be slightly lower.
2. Choose a linear drain for the floor or a wall drain.
3. Connect the drain to the waste pipe and check the connection for leaks.
4. Lay the shower floor to the fall specified by the drain manufacturer.
5. Waterproof the wet zone and tile with non-slip floor tiles.
6. Fit a glass walk-in shower screen.

💡 Tip: Place the drain along the wall. The floor then only needs to slope one way and you can use large tiles. A step-free shower is also ideal for older people; browse our accessible sanitaryware.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Tako 60 linear drain (chrome).

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment to discuss your shower.

🔗 See also: How do I waterproof a shower? (Renovation section) and Shower tray, walk-in shower or linear drain: which suits me? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Planning a walk-in shower without a step? Anna is happy to think along with you.

For a wall-hung toilet, you fit a concealed cistern with frame, connect the water and waste, build a stud wall around it and, after tiling, mount the toilet pan, seat and flush plate.

1. Choose a complete set with concealed cistern, wall-hung toilet, seat and flush plate, or put together your own combination.
2. Turn off the water, remove the old toilet and temporarily cap the waste pipe against sewer smells.
3. Fit the concealed frame level and at the height stated in the instructions.
4. Connect the water supply to the cistern and the waste to the soil stack, and check everything for leaks.
5. Build the stud wall with metal profiles or building boards, board it with water-resistant plasterboard and tile.
6. Mount the toilet pan, seat and flush plate, and seal the joint.

💡 Tip: The flush plate opening gives you access to the cistern mechanism later. So keep that opening free of tiles and sealant.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view set C14: Aqua 50 WC frame with City wall-hung toilet and seat.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our concealed toilet sets.

🔗 See also: Wall-hung or floor-standing toilet: what is the difference? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I replace a floor-standing toilet? (Sanitaryware section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Replacing your toilet and want to know what is involved? Anna is happy to think along with you.

As a skilled DIYer you can often do the demolition, walls, tiling, painting and fitting of sanitaryware yourself; always leave gas and electrics to a registered installer, and call in a professional or structural engineer for structural work.

• Often DIY: demolition, plasterboard walls and ceilings, tiling, sealing, painting and fitting furniture and accessories.
• With experience: installing water supply and waste pipes. A leak can cause a lot of damage, so if in doubt, have it done.
• Always by a registered installer: anything involving gas and electrics, and the boiler.
• Structural work: removing a load-bearing wall or altering a floor or roof. Have a structural engineer check it and ask your local council which rules apply.
• Asbestos: suspect asbestos in an older home? Stop and have it tested by a licensed company first.

💡 Tip: Do the preparation and finishing yourself and leave the specialist work in between to the professionals. Soon you will be able to choose which parts to have done and which to do yourself with the Saniso service configurator, which is currently being built.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment to discuss your plans.

🔗 See also: In what order should I renovate my bathroom? (Renovation section) and How do I plan a renovation, such as a kitchen, floor or extension? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure what you can do yourself in your renovation? Anna is happy to think along with you.

You dispose of the demolition waste from your old bathroom yourself: have a skip or bulk bag delivered by a waste company, or take the waste, sorted, to your local recycling centre by trailer or van.

• Option 1, skip or bulk bag: order one from a waste company. Ask beforehand which waste is allowed. Will the skip stand on the street? Ask your local council what is required.
• Option 2, take it yourself: bring the waste to your local recycling centre by trailer or van. Check the opening hours and rules beforehand.
• Sorting: keep rubble, wood, metal, plaster and other waste separate. Ceramic sanitaryware usually goes with the rubble; follow the layout of the recycling centre or the waste company's instructions.
• Asbestos: homes built before 1994 may contain asbestos, for example in old sealant, floor coverings, boards or around pipes. Suspect asbestos? Stop demolishing and have it tested by a licensed company first.
• Handy for demolition: rubble sacks, a breaker, floor and plaster removal tools and a dust mask.

💡 Tip: Arrange the waste disposal before you start demolishing. The skip will then be there on time and you can sort the waste straight away.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 120 L rubble bags (pack of 10).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our rubble sacks.

🔗 See also: How do I remove old tiles? (Tiles section) and In what order should I renovate my bathroom? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Stripping out your old bathroom and want to prepare properly? Anna is happy to think along with you.

You install new or relocated waste pipes in PVC waste pipe laid to a fall towards the soil stack, with the right diameter for each fixture and as few sharp bends as possible.

1. Plan the route to the soil stack: the shorter, the better.
2. Choose the diameter for each fixture. A toilet has a much larger waste, usually 110 mm, than a washbasin or shower.
3. Lay the pipe to an even fall towards the soil stack, as specified, and avoid spots where water can stand.
4. Cut the pipe square with a PVC pipe cutter, deburr the ends and join the parts as specified by the pipe system.
5. Where possible, use two 45-degree bends instead of one 90-degree bend.
6. Fit a trap at each fixture to stop sewer smells, and test everything for leaks before closing the floor or wall.

💡 Tip: Want to move the toilet far from the soil stack? Talk to an installer first, as a toilet waste needs a lot of space and fall.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the ∅ 0–42 mm PVC pipe cutter (STALCO PERFECT).

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment to discuss your plans.

🔗 See also: How do I replace the trap under a washbasin? (Sanitaryware section) and What can I do myself during a renovation, and what should I leave to a professional? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Moving the waste pipes and not sure if it is possible? Anna is happy to think along with you.

You conceal water pipes in a stud wall, pipe boxing or a chase in the wall or floor; use multilayer pipe with press fittings for this, because compression fittings must stay accessible.

1. First use a detector to find existing pipes and cables.
2. Choose the method: a stud wall, pipe boxing made from building boards, or a chase in the wall or floor. Do not cut deep chases in load-bearing or thin walls without advice.
3. Lay the pipes with multilayer pipe. In the floor, preferably use insulated pipe or a protective sleeve.
4. Secure the pipes firmly and use wall plates for the tap connection points.
5. Pressurise the pipes and check all fittings for leaks before you conceal them.

💡 Tip: Take photos of the pipes with a tape measure in the shot before you close the wall or floor. You will then know exactly where not to drill later. Have electric cables installed by a registered electrician.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the BONFIX multilayer pipe 16 × 2 mm (25 metres).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our multilayer pipe.

🔗 See also: How do I replace my water pipes? (Building materials section) and Compression fitting or press fitting: what is the difference? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Concealing pipes and unsure how to go about it? Anna is happy to think along with you.

Plan a renovation from the big picture to the details: first your wishes and the design, then the rules and the professionals, and after that the order of work and the materials, so that everything is ready on time.

1. Write down your wishes and make a design, for example in the Planning Lab.
2. Ask your local council which rules apply, for example for an extension.
3. Decide what you will do yourself and what you will have done. Plan gas, electrics and structural work with registered professionals.
4. Draw up an order of work: demolition, shell work and pipes, walls and ceilings, screed, tiles and floors, kitchen and sanitaryware, and finally the finishing.
5. Allow for the drying times of screed, plaster and adhesive.
6. Put all the materials on a project list and request a project quote. Order the items you need first, such as pipes and concealed parts, before the rest.

💡 Tip: Soon you will be able to put together your job yourself with the Saniso service configurator, such as an extension, a new floor or a kitchen. It is currently being built.

➡️ Next step: Click here to create a project list and request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: What does a renovation cost? (Renovation section) and What can I do myself during a renovation, and what should I leave to a professional? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Planning a renovation and not sure where to start? Anna is happy to think along with you.

You make an attic habitable with roof insulation, a sturdy floor, sloping walls and knee walls made of timber and plasterboard, and good ventilation and daylight; for structural changes, such as a dormer, you call in a professional.

1. Check the floor, the headroom and the stairs first. For a dormer or a larger stair opening, have a professional take a look and ask your local council which rules apply.
2. Insulate the roof and fit a vapour control layer on the warm side.
3. Build the framework for the sloping walls and knee walls from softwood or metal profiles.
4. Board it with plasterboard and finish the joints with jointing compound and reinforcing tape.
5. Lay a sturdy subfloor, for example from tongue and groove OSB boards.
6. Have the electrics installed by a registered electrician and make sure there is ventilation.

💡 Tip: Fit a small hatch in the knee wall. You can then use the space behind it for storage.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the OSB-3 TG4 construction board 18 mm.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our building materials.

🔗 See also: Plasterboard, OSB or building board: which board should I choose? (Building materials section) and How do I build a metal stud and plasterboard wall? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Converting your attic and want to know which materials you need? Anna is happy to think along with you.

You apply waterproofing by priming the substrate, first fitting sealing tape in all corners and seams and sleeves around pipes and the drain, and then applying a liquid membrane in two coats or a waterproofing sheet with overlaps over the entire wet area.

Want to know first where waterproofing is needed in a bathroom and how the whole system works? Read "How do I waterproof a shower?". Below you will find the step-by-step application.

What do you need?

• A waterproofing system from one manufacturer: primer, liquid membrane or waterproofing sheet, sealing tape, internal and external corners, and sleeves for pipes and the drain
• A primer as specified by the system. According to its product page, the Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT S081564327 can be used, among other things, as a primer for liquid membranes; check whether the system allows this
• A linear shower drain or drain with a connection flange or sleeve that suits the system
• A brush, roller or trowel, scissors and a ruler
• Gloves

Step by step:

1. Prepare the substrate. It must be flat, clean, dry and sound. Repair holes and cracks, and make sure the floor has the correct fall towards the drain.
2. Apply the primer and let it dry as stated in the system's specifications.
3. Fit the shower drain or drain according to the installation instructions, so that its flange or sleeve can be incorporated into the waterproofing.
4. Fit sealing tape in all corners: the corner between wall and floor and the corners between two walls. Press the tape into a first coat of liquid membrane or into the adhesive the system specifies, without creases or air bubbles.
5. Finish internal and external corners with pre-formed corner pieces. Where tapes meet, overlap them as the manufacturer specifies.
6. Fit sleeves around the pipe penetrations for the tap and shower and around the drain. That stops water getting behind the pipes.
7. Apply the membrane. A liquid membrane is usually applied in two coats, the second at right angles to the first and only once the first is dry. If you choose a waterproofing sheet or mat, bond it with the specified adhesive and overlap the strips.
8. Continue high enough up the walls in the shower area and around the bath. The system's instructions state how far.
9. Check the result once everything is dry: no pinholes, blisters or thin spots, and all corners, seams and sleeves are incorporated.
10. Then tile with a tile adhesive that is compatible with the membrane (see "How do I tile a wall?" and "How do I lay a tiled floor?"). Seal the junctions with sanitary silicone sealant.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for thickness per coat, drying time between coats, overlap, coverage and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us.

💡 Tip: Use all components from one system: primer, tape, corners, sleeves and membrane are then designed to work together. Waterproofing a shower and unsure whether you can do it yourself? Have a professional do it.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Aquastop 120.

➡️ Next step: Click here to book an appointment to discuss your project.

🔗 See also: How do I waterproof a shower? (Renovation section) and How do I create a shower without a step? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Waterproofing a shower and want to go through the approach first? Anna is happy to think along with you.

Remove surface mould with a mould remover or cleaning product as instructed, wearing gloves and with good ventilation. Mould that has grown into sealant is removed by replacing the sealant. And always tackle the cause: moisture and too little ventilation.

How to prevent mould in the bathroom is explained in "How do I prevent damp and mould in my bathroom?".

What do you need?

• A mould remover or cleaning product for mould (not currently in our range); for grease and dirt see our surface cleaners and degreasers
• Chemical-resistant gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask, for example from our half masks
• A sponge or brush and clean cloths
• For sealant joints: sanitary silicone sealant and Fila Zero Sil
• For the cause: ventilation or a dehumidifier

Step by step:

1. Find the cause. Mould grows where it is often damp: showering and cooking without ventilation, cold corners or a leak. A damp patch that keeps coming back may point to a leak or penetrating damp; have it investigated.
2. Protect yourself. Wear gloves and glasses, ventilate well and keep children and pets away. If you have asthma or a lung condition, let someone else do the job.
3. Do not clean it dry. Do not brush or sand mould off dry: that spreads the spores.
4. Treat the area with a mould remover as instructed. Never mix different cleaning products, especially not bleach with acids or ammonia.
5. Rinse and let it dry if the instructions say so.
6. Mould in sealant? Black spots inside the sealant rarely come out. Replace the sealant (see "How do I remove old sealant and sealant residue?" and "How do I seal my bathroom neatly?").
7. Mould in grout? Clean it, and renew it if the mould has penetrated (see "How do I remove old grout and regrout?").
8. Only paint or seal once the surface is completely dry.
9. Prevent it coming back. Ventilate during and after showering, squeegee the walls dry and keep ventilation grilles open.

Large areas? Is the mould larger than a few square metres, behind wallpaper, in wood or in insulation, or does it keep coming back? Call in a specialist.

💡 Tip: Leave the extractor fan running for a while after showering and leave the door ajar. That alone often helps a lot against mould.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 790 W DP60L construction dehumidifier (STALCO PERFECT).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our dehumidifiers and fans.

🔗 See also: How do I prevent damp and mould in my bathroom? (Renovation section) and How do I remove old sealant and sealant residue? (Tiles section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Mould keeps coming back and you would like to look at the cause together? Anna is happy to think along with you.

Only demolish a non-load-bearing interior wall once it has been established that the wall really is not load-bearing, that it contains no asbestos and that services have been disconnected by a registered installer. Then demolish from the top down, with the right tools and personal protection.

Watch out for asbestos: in homes built or renovated before 1994, tiles, tile adhesive (especially black, bituminous adhesive), vinyl floor tiles and old sealant may contain asbestos. In doubt? Do not demolish, sand or drill, but have the material tested by a certified company first. Your municipality can tell you which rules apply.

What do you need?

• A rotary hammer or demolition hammer with SDS-plus or SDS-max chisels
• For a timber or metal stud wall: a reciprocating saw and a crowbar
• Rubble sacks, protective covers and a construction vacuum cleaner
• PPE: a helmet, safety glasses, hearing protection, an FFP3 mask such as the FFP3 PURO, gloves and safety shoes

Step by step:

1. Have the wall assessed for load-bearing function. You cannot tell for certain from its thickness or sound. Have a structural engineer or building surveyor look at it; do not make your own estimate.
2. Check with your municipality whether you need to arrange anything for the renovation and, in an apartment, with the owners' association too.
3. Have materials suspected of containing asbestos tested if the home dates from before 1994.
4. Have services disconnected. Have electricity, gas and water in or along the wall isolated, capped or rerouted by a registered installer.
5. Screen off the room with plastic sheeting, cover the floor and provide ventilation.
6. Put on your PPE. Demolition releases a lot of fine dust that may contain silica.
7. Demolish from the top down. Start at the ceiling and work in small sections so that no large pieces fall at once. Remove a plasterboard or timber wall board by board and batten by batten.
8. Remove rubble regularly in sacks you can still lift.
9. Repair the floor, walls and ceiling where the wall stood.

💡 Tip: Before you start, make a plan for the rubble: how many sacks, where to put them and how to dispose of them. That saves a lot of carrying.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the DH10J SDS Max demolition hammer (STALCO).

➡️ Next step: Click here to request a project quotation.

🔗 See also: How do I remove old tiles? (Tiles section) and How do I dispose of my old bathroom? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Want to remove a wall and unsure about the approach? Anna is happy to think along with you.

The right fixing depends on the wall: use cavity wall plugs in plasterboard and hollow walls, a universal plug in brick or concrete, and a chemical anchor for heavy loads.

• Plasterboard and hollow walls: cavity wall plugs that lock behind the board.
• Brick and concrete: universal plugs and screws.
• Heavy loads and porous masonry: chemical anchors.
• Wall-hung toilet and floating vanity unit: use the mounting kit and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

💡 Tip: Building a metal stud or timber wall? Fit a timber batten or mounting board where heavy furniture will go before finishing the wall.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the PXS 10 × 100 mm frame expansion plug for hollow materials.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all fixing systems.

🔗 See also: How do I hang a washbasin or bathroom cabinet? (Sanitaryware section) and Which screw should I use for wood, plasterboard and metal? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which plug you need? Sophie is happy to help.

Silicone sealant seals joints elastically and watertight, acrylic sealant is paintable for dry indoor joints, and construction adhesive is used to bond materials together.

• Silicone sealant: stays elastic and is watertight. For bathrooms, kitchens and glass. Not paintable.
• Acrylic sealant: paintable. For joints at skirting boards, frames and ceilings indoors, not in wet areas.
• Construction adhesive (adhesives): bonds skirting boards, panels and profiles without screws.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for application temperature, skin formation time, curing time and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Sanitary silicone Transparent STALCO PERFECT S-64794 and Mounting adhesive for skirting boards STALCO PERFECT S-64860.

💡 Tip: Does the joint need painting? Choose acrylic. Will it get wet? Choose silicone.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the STALCO PERFECT Mounting Adhesive for Skirting Boards.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our silicones.

🔗 See also: Which sealant should I use in the bathroom, and which colour? (Tiles section) and How do I seal a window frame, skirting board or worktop? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which sealant or adhesive you need? Sophie is happy to help.

A metal stud wall consists of metal U-tracks on the floor and ceiling, vertical C-studs in between and plasterboard on top; in wet rooms, use moisture-resistant plasterboard.

1. Set out the wall and fix the tracks to the floor and ceiling.
2. Fit the studs into the tracks, usually at 60 cm centres. For tiled walls often closer together: follow the manufacturer's instructions.
3. Run the pipes and fit timber battens or mounting boards for sanitaryware and furniture.
4. Fill the wall with insulation if required.
5. Screw on the plasterboard and finish the joints with jointing tape and compound.

💡 Tip: Tiling the wall? Check the board and adhesive instructions to see how many layers of plasterboard you need.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Knauf H2 water-resistant plasterboard 2600 × 1200 × 12.5 mm.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our plasterboard.

🔗 See also: How do I fit plasterboard to a wall or ceiling? (Building materials section) and How do I finish plasterboard joints? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for materials for a metal stud wall? Sophie is happy to help.

A compression fitting is tightened with a spanner and can be undone again; a press fitting is permanently pressed onto the pipe with a press tool and is quick and reliable.

• Compression fitting: no special tools needed, handy for repairs and connections that stay accessible.
• Press fitting: quick to install and suitable for concealing in walls or floors. You need a press tool with the right jaws.
• Pipe and fitting: always choose a fitting that matches the pipe material and diameter.

💡 Tip: Browse our blog for more installation tips.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the BONFIX press-to-compression reducing fitting 16 × 15.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our fittings.

🔗 See also: How do I replace my water pipes? (Building materials section) and How do I replace an angle valve? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which fitting suits your pipe? Sophie is happy to help.

Choose plasterboard for dry walls and ceilings, water-resistant plasterboard for damp rooms, OSB for sturdy structural work and subfloors, and a building board as a water-resistant base for tiles.

• Plasterboard: for partition walls, wall linings and ceilings in dry rooms. Easy to finish smoothly and paint.
• Water-resistant plasterboard (H2): for bathrooms, toilets and kitchens. In the wet zone of the shower, always apply waterproofing on top.
• OSB/3: a sturdy wood-based board for floors, walls, cupboards and workbenches. With tongue and groove edges you can lay a subfloor without open joints.
• Building board: a light, insulating board with an extruded polystyrene (XPS) core and a mortar coating. A sturdy tile backer for walls, pipe boxing and bath panels, also in damp rooms.

💡 Tip: Tiling the wall? Choose a building board or water-resistant plasterboard, and check the tile adhesive instructions to see whether it suits your surface.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the OSB-3 TG4 construction board 12 mm.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our plasterboard.

🔗 See also: How do I build pipe boxing, a bath panel or a wall from building boards? (Building materials section) and How do I fit plasterboard to a wall or ceiling? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which board suits your job? Sophie is happy to help.

You cut building boards to size, fix them with tile adhesive and plugs or screws with pressure washers, and bond and reinforce the joints; after that you can tile straight away.

1. Measure the pipe boxing, bath panel or wall and cut the building boards to size.
2. For freestanding boxing or a bath panel, build a frame from softwood or metal profiles first if needed.
3. Bond the boards to the wall or frame and secure them with plugs or screws with pressure washers.
4. Bond the joints and reinforce them with reinforcing tape or glass-fibre mesh.
5. Waterproof the joints and corners in the wet zone, then tile.

💡 Tip: Leave an access hatch or removable panel at taps, stopcocks and the concealed cistern so you can always reach them later. Follow the board manufacturer's instructions for adhesive, fixings and joints.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 2600 × 600 × 20 mm building board.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our construction boards.

🔗 See also: Plasterboard, OSB or building board: which board should I choose? (Building materials section) and How do I build a metal stud and plasterboard wall? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for materials for pipe boxing or a bath panel? Sophie is happy to help.

Planed softwood is smooth and dimensionally accurate and is used for battens and frames; sawn softwood is used for laths and work that stays out of sight.

• Planed softwood: for the framework of wall linings, frames, pipe boxing and workbenches. Our planed softwood is strength class C24.
• Sawn softwood: for laths behind boards or insulation and for temporary work.
• Indoors or outdoors: untreated softwood is meant for indoor use or for structures that stay dry.
• Sustainable: our softwood is FSC Mix certified.

💡 Tip: Leave timber in the room where you will use it for a few days before working with it. It adjusts to the climate and is less likely to warp.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view planed spruce C24 44 × 69 mm.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our timber.

🔗 See also: Plasterboard, OSB or building board: which board should I choose? (Building materials section) and Which screw should I use for wood, plasterboard and metal? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which timber suits your job? Sophie is happy to help.

You use a primer on absorbent, dusty or very smooth surfaces so that adhesive, plaster, levelling compound or paint bonds well and does not dry out too quickly.

• Absorbent surfaces: such as plasterboard, aerated concrete, plaster and sand-cement screed. The primer reduces suction.
• Dusty or sandy surfaces: a deep-penetrating primer binds the surface.
• Smooth, non-absorbent surfaces: such as old tiles or smooth concrete. These often need a special bonding primer: check the adhesive or plaster instructions.
• Under a waterproofing system: always use the primer that belongs to the system.

1. Make sure the surface is clean, dry and free of dust.
2. Apply the primer with a brush or roller, without leaving puddles.
3. Let the primer dry as stated on the packaging before you continue.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for drying time, application temperature, coverage and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT S081564327.

💡 Tip: Run your hand over the wall. Does dust or sand stick to your hand? Then a deep-penetrating primer is a good idea.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our primers.

🔗 See also: How do I prepare the surface for tiling? (Tiles section) and How do I level a floor, for example for vinyl, laminate or tiles? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which primer suits your surface? Sophie is happy to help.

Fill small holes and cracks with filler, fill deep holes in layers, and reinforce cracks that keep coming back with mesh tape first.

1. Remove loose material and make the hole dust-free. Open up a hairline crack slightly so that the filler can grip.
2. On an absorbent surface, apply a primer first.
3. Fill the hole with a filling knife. Fill deep holes in several layers, letting each one dry.
4. Reinforce cracks with mesh tape and embed the tape in the filler.
5. Once dry, sand smooth and apply a thin finishing coat before painting.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Speedline Filler Light.

💡 Tip: Does a crack keep coming back or get wider? Then have a professional take a look, as there may be a structural cause.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Speedline Super Filler 5 kg.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our plaster and fillers.

🔗 See also: How do I fill a wall smooth? (Building materials section) and How do I finish plasterboard joints? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which filler suits your hole or crack? Sophie is happy to help.

You finish plasterboard joints with jointing compound and reinforcing tape: fill the joint first, embed the tape, then apply one or two thin finishing coats and sand lightly.

1. Check that all screws sit just below the surface and that the joints are clean and dust-free.
2. Fill the joint with jointing compound.
3. Embed the reinforcing tape in the wet compound, or apply self-adhesive glass-fibre tape to the joint beforehand.
4. Finish external corners with corner tape or a corner bead.
5. Once dry, apply one or two thin finishing coats, each slightly wider than the joint, and sand lightly.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Speedline Super Filler.

💡 Tip: Tiling the wall? Then a fully smooth finish is usually not needed. Check the plasterboard and tile adhesive instructions to see what is required.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view Speedline paper joint tape 50 mm × 150 m.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our jointing compounds and fillers.

🔗 See also: How do I fit plasterboard to a wall or ceiling? (Building materials section) and How do I repair holes and cracks in a wall or ceiling? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for materials to finish plasterboard? Sophie is happy to help.

You use PU foam to fill and insulate gaps, joints and penetrations, for example around window frames and pipes; there is also adhesive foam for bonding boards and blocks.

• All-purpose foam: for holes, gaps and penetrations. In a can with a straw or for a foam gun.
• Low-expansion foam: expands only slightly and does not push frames out of line.
• Winter foam: for use at low temperatures. The can states the minimum temperature.
• Fire-resistant foam: for joints and penetrations where fire resistance is required.
• Adhesive foam: for bonding polystyrene insulation boards or blocks, for example.

💡 Tip: Dampen the surface lightly, fill a joint only halfway (the foam keeps expanding) and cut off the excess once it has cured. Foam does not withstand sunlight, so finish it with sealant or plaster. Wear gloves and safety glasses.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the universal PU foam with hose PUW 20 (STALCO).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our PU foam.

🔗 See also: How do I seal a window frame, skirting board or worktop? (Building materials section) and What is the difference between silicone sealant, acrylic sealant and construction adhesive? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which foam suits your job? Sophie is happy to help.

Use wood screws for timber and wood-based boards, special drywall screws for plasterboard, and self-drilling screws for metal profiles and thin steel.

• Wood screws: for timber, OSB and other boards. Pre-drill in hardwood and close to the edge so the wood does not split.
• Drywall screws: sink just below the paper face without tearing it. There are separate screws for timber and metal studs.
• Self-drilling screws: with a drill point, for metal profiles and thin steel without pre-drilling.
• Structural screws: long, hardened screws for timber joints such as beams and roof trusses.
• Brick and concrete: always use a plug that suits the wall.

💡 Tip: Use a bit that fits the screw head exactly (PH, PZ or Torx). That way you won't strip the head and you'll work faster.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the BD ø3.5 × 25 mm plasterboard screws (100 pcs).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all our screws.

🔗 See also: Which wall plug or fixing should I use for a vanity unit or in plasterboard? (Building materials section) and Planed or sawn softwood: which should I use for what? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Not sure which screw you need? Sophie is happy to help.

First bond insulation boards to the wall, then fix them mechanically with insulation anchors; the type and length of anchor depend on the insulation thickness and the substrate.

1. Check that the substrate is flat, clean and sound.
2. Bond the boards in a staggered pattern with tight joints, for example with adhesive foam.
3. Once cured, drill through the board into the wall and fit the insulation anchors: hammer-in anchors or screw-in anchors.
4. For hollow or porous blocks, choose an anchor with an extended expansion zone.
5. Plastering over the insulation? Countersink the anchors with insulation caps and embed reinforcing mesh in the plaster layer.

💡 Tip: The anchor must pass through the insulation and still sit deep enough in the wall. The anchor instructions state exactly how deep. For external wall insulation with render, use all the components of one system.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the KTP ø8 × 95 mm insulation fixing plug.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all our insulation fixings.

🔗 See also: When should I use PU foam, and which foam should I choose? (Building materials section) and Which wall plug or fixing should I use for a vanity unit or in plasterboard? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which insulation anchor suits your wall? Sophie is happy to help.

New water pipes are often installed with multilayer pipe and press fittings these days: the pipe is light, easy to bend and suitable for concealing, and you connect to existing copper pipes with a transition fitting.

1. Make a plan: where will the draw-off points be and which pipe diameter do you need? A manifold with a separate pipe to each draw-off point keeps the water pressure stable.
2. Turn off the main stopcock and drain the pipes.
3. Cut the multilayer pipe square with a pipe cutter, then calibrate and deburr the end.
4. Fit the press fittings with a press tool and the correct jaws. Connect existing copper pipes with a transition fitting.
5. Secure the pipes with pipe clips and insulate the hot water pipes.
6. Pressurise the pipes and check every fitting for leaks before you conceal them.

💡 Tip: Use blue pipe for cold and red pipe for hot water to keep your pipework easy to identify. According to the product pages, BONFIX Alupers pipe is suitable for drinking water and central heating.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the BONFIX multilayer pipe 16 × 2 mm (25 metres).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our multilayer pipe.

🔗 See also: How do I conceal water pipes in a wall or floor? (Renovation section) and Compression fitting or press fitting: what is the difference? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which pipe and fittings do you need for your water supply? Sophie is happy to help.

You replace an angle valve in a few steps: turn off the water, unscrew the old valve, seal the thread, screw in the new valve and reconnect the flexible hose.

1. Turn off the main stopcock and open a tap to release the pressure.
2. Put a container and a cloth under the valve. Undo the flexible hose and unscrew the old angle valve from the wall.
3. Clean the thread and seal it with thread sealant, such as sealing cord. If the new valve has its own sealing ring, follow the instructions.
4. Screw in the new valve by hand, then tighten it with pliers or a wrench until it is straight. Do not overtighten.
5. Connect the hose, slowly open the main stopcock and check for leaks.

💡 Tip: Replacing your taps? Choose an angle valve in the same colour. Our angle valves come in chrome, black, gold, copper and gunmetal, among others.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Oval angle valve (chrome).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our angle valves.

🔗 See also: How do I replace a washbasin tap? (Sanitaryware section) and How do I replace my water pipes? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for an angle valve to match your tap? Sophie is happy to help.

As a skilled DIYer you can lay the pipes to a radiator or underfloor heating yourself, but have a registered installer connect them to the heating system and balance it; never work on the boiler or the gas pipe yourself.

1. Have the required heat output of the radiator or underfloor heating calculated in advance.
2. Plan the route of the flow and return pipes. Underfloor heating works with circuits connected to a manifold.
3. Lay the pipes with multilayer pipe that is suitable for central heating and press the fittings.
4. Pressurise the pipes and check them for leaks before you conceal them.
5. Have a registered installer connect the pipes, fill and bleed the system, and balance it.

💡 Tip: Use red pipe for the flow and blue pipe for the return so that your installer can recognise the pipes straight away.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the BONFIX insulated red multilayer pipe 16 × 2 mm (50 metres).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our multilayer pipe.

🔗 See also: How do I replace my water pipes? (Building materials section) and What can I do myself during a renovation, and what should I leave to a professional? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for materials for your heating pipes? Sophie is happy to help.

You plaster a wall by making the substrate clean and dust-free and priming it, mixing the plaster free of lumps, applying it in an even layer with a trowel, straightening it with a straightedge and trowelling it smooth once it has started to set.

What do you need?

• Gypsum plaster for interior walls, such as the Knauf Hand Plaster Goldband Quick
• A bonding agent or primer, such as the Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT S081564327
• Plastering trowels, corner trowels and a finishing trowel
• A straightedge or batten, a spirit level and, if needed, plaster beads or tape
• A bucket, a plaster mixer or mixer and clean water
• Protective covers, masking tape and gloves

Step by step:

1. Prepare the room. Cover the floor, mask window frames and wall boxes, and have a registered electrician remove the cover plates of switches and sockets if necessary.
2. Prepare the substrate. Remove loose material, dust and grease. Fill large holes first.
3. Prime the substrate with a bonding agent or primer, so that the wall does not draw the water out of the plaster too quickly. Let it dry as stated in the specifications.
4. Fit corner beads on external corners for sharp, strong corners.
5. Mix the plaster using the mixing ratio on the packaging: water in the bucket first, then add the powder. Only mix as much as you can use within the working time.
6. Apply the plaster with the trowel, from the bottom up, in as even a layer as possible.
7. Straighten the layer with a straightedge in zigzag movements and fill low spots.
8. Let the plaster set until it is no longer sticky but still damp.
9. Trowel the wall smooth with a clean, slightly dampened finishing trowel.
10. Let the wall dry thoroughly and ventilate. Only then paint, wallpaper or tile (see "How do I paint a wall or ceiling?").

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Knauf Hand Plaster Goldband Quick.

💡 Tip: Plastering takes practice. Start on a small, inconspicuous wall, or for a small repair choose a ready-mixed filler (see "How do I fill a wall smooth?").

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 305 mm American trowel (STALCO PERFECT).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our plaster.

🔗 See also: How do I fill a wall smooth? (Building materials section) and How do I mix tile adhesive, mortar or plaster without lumps? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which plaster suits your wall and layer thickness? Sophie is happy to help.

You fill a wall smooth by filling holes and irregularities in thin layers with a wide filling knife, letting each layer dry, sanding lightly and making the wall dust-free before painting.

Only want to repair holes and cracks? Read "How do I repair holes and cracks in a wall or ceiling?". For plasterboard joints: "How do I finish plasterboard joints?".

What do you need?

• Filler in powder or ready-mixed form, such as Speedline Super Filler or Speedline Filler Light; see also trowels and fillers
• A narrow and a wide filling knife
• Sandpaper and a sanding block or sanding sponge
• A primer for absorbent substrates
• A dust mask (FFP2), for example from our half masks

Step by step:

1. Clean the wall and remove loose paint, nails and plugs.
2. Fill deep holes first with a filler suitable for that depth. Fill deep holes in several layers.
3. Mix the filler as described on the packaging, or briefly stir ready-mixed filler. The page for Speedline Super Filler, for example, states "2–3 liters of water per 5 kg bag" for mixing.
4. Apply a thin layer with the wide knife. Hold the knife at an angle and draw it across the wall in long strokes.
5. Work crosswise: apply the second layer at right angles to the first. That removes small ridges.
6. Let each layer dry as stated in the specifications before applying the next.
7. Sand lightly with fine sandpaper on a sanding block (see "How do I sand a wall, filler or woodwork?"). Wear a dust mask while you do this.
8. Check with raking light: hold a lamp at an angle along the wall and you will see irregularities straight away.
9. Make the wall dust-free and apply a primer before painting if necessary.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Speedline Super Filler.

💡 Tip: Two or three thin layers end up smoother than one thick layer, and you need to sand less.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 200 mm painter's spatula (STALCO).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our filling knives.

🔗 See also: How do I repair holes and cracks in a wall or ceiling? (Building materials section) and How do I sand a wall, filler or woodwork? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which filler suits your wall or repair? Sophie is happy to help.

You level a floor by making it clean, dust-free and sound, repairing cracks and holes, applying a primer, fitting edge strips along the walls and mixing and pouring the self-levelling compound in one go at the layer thickness specified by the manufacturer.

What do you need?

• Self-levelling compound suited to the substrate and the floor finish. Self-levelling compound is not currently in our range
• A primer. According to its product page, the Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT S081564327 can be used, among other things, as a primer for levelling coatings
• A mixing machine or powerful mixer, large buckets and a measuring jug
• A smoothing trowel or squeegee and a spiked roller
• A spirit level, straightedge or laser to measure height differences
• Edge insulation strip, knee pads and a dust mask (FFP2)

Step by step:

1. Measure the height differences with a straightedge, spirit level or laser. That tells you the layer thickness you need and how much material.
2. Make the floor clean and sound. Remove loose material, adhesive residue, grease and dust. Vacuum thoroughly.
3. Repair cracks and holes and seal seams and pipe penetrations so the compound does not run away.
4. Fit edge insulation strip along walls, frames and pipes.
5. Apply the primer as the compound manufacturer specifies and let it dry. Primer prevents air bubbles and ensures adhesion.
6. Mix the compound with the exact amount of water on the packaging, using a mixing machine. More water makes the floor weaker.
7. Pour the compound in strips, without interruption, and spread it with a smoothing trowel or squeegee.
8. De-aerate with a spiked roller within the working time.
9. Let the floor dry without draughts or strong sunlight. Only lay vinyl, laminate or tiles once the floor is dry enough according to the manufacturers of the compound and the floor.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for layer thickness, working time, drying time, suitable substrates, coverage and mixing ratio. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us.

Wooden floor or underfloor heating? Then extra requirements apply to the compound and the preparation. Get advice before you start.

💡 Tip: Work with two people: one mixes, the other pours and spreads. That way you can keep going without interruption.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Deep penetrating primer STALCO PERFECT.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our primers.

🔗 See also: When and why should I use a primer? (Building materials section) and How do I mix tile adhesive, mortar or plaster without lumps? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Levelling a floor and unsure about the preparation? Sophie is happy to help.

You fit plasterboard by first making a flat framework of timber or metal studs on the wall or ceiling, cutting the boards to size and screwing them on with drywall screws at fixed intervals, with staggered joints.

You build a complete metal stud wall as described in "How do I build a metal stud and plasterboard wall?". You finish the joints as described in "How do I finish plasterboard joints?".

What do you need?

• Plasterboard; moisture-resistant boards for wet rooms
• Timber battens or metal stud profiles, and suitable plugs and screws
• Drywall screws and bits
• A cordless screwdriver and a spirit level or laser
• A utility knife, a straightedge, a surform rasp and a tape measure
• For a ceiling: a second person and a sturdy platform or step ladder

Step by step:

1. Check for pipes and cables in the wall or ceiling with a detector. If pipes or wiring need to be moved, have a registered installer do that first.
2. Make the framework. Fix battens or profiles level and in one plane. Pack out irregularities with shims. The centre-to-centre spacing is given in the board manufacturer's instructions.
3. Measure and cut the board. Score the paper face with a utility knife along a straightedge, snap the board along the line and cut through the back. Rasp the cut edge smooth.
4. Position the first board against the framework, leaving a small gap at floor and ceiling.
5. Screw the board on with drywall screws. Sink the screw head just below the paper without tearing it.
6. Stagger the joints from row to row so that there are no cross joints.
7. Work on a ceiling with two people and at right angles to the battens. Hold the board up with a board lifter or T-prop, never with your head.
8. Make openings for wall boxes with a hole saw or jigsaw. Have electrics connected by a registered electrician.
9. Finish the joints with joint tape and jointing compound.

Bonding plasterboard directly to the wall? That is possible on a flat, sound wall with a special plasterboard adhesive. Follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions.

💡 Tip: Leave plasterboard lying flat in the room for a day or two before fitting. It then adjusts to the temperature and humidity.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the Knauf P RK plasterboard 2000 × 400 × 9.5 mm.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our plasterboard.

🔗 See also: How do I build a metal stud and plasterboard wall? (Building materials section) and How do I finish plasterboard joints? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which board and framework suit your wall or ceiling? Sophie is happy to help.

You fit skirting boards by cutting them to size with mitred corners, fixing them to the wall with skirting board adhesive, nails or screws, and then sealing the joint with the wall with paintable acrylic sealant.

What do you need?

• Skirting boards (not currently in our range)
• Skirting board adhesive, such as Mounting adhesive for skirting boards STALCO PERFECT S-64860, or plugs and screws
• A hand saw with mitre box, or a mitre saw
• A caulking gun, masking tape and acrylic sealant, such as Universal acrylic STALCO PERFECT S-64770
• A tape measure, pencil and, if needed, a spirit level

Step by step:

1. Clean the wall and floor and remove dust. Adhesive does not stick to dust, grease or loose paint.
2. Measure the walls and mark the lengths on the skirting boards.
3. Mitre the corners: usually 45 degrees for an internal or external corner. Cut a test piece to check the corner; walls are rarely exactly square.
4. Choose the fixing. Adhesive is quick and invisible on a flat wall. On an uneven wall, or with heavy skirting, screw or nail the board.
5. Apply the adhesive in a bead or in dabs on the back of the board, as the adhesive manufacturer states. Check in the specifications which materials the adhesive works on: according to its product page, Mounting adhesive for skirting boards STALCO PERFECT S-64860 is not suitable for styrofoam (EPS), for example.
6. Press the board against wall and floor. If necessary, hold it temporarily with tape or panel pins until the adhesive has cured.
7. Seal the joints between skirting and wall and in the corners with acrylic sealant. Smooth the sealant with a damp finger or sealant spatula (see "How do I seal a window frame, skirting board or worktop?").
8. Paint the skirting and sealant if needed once the sealant is dry.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for application temperature, curing time, coverage and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Mounting adhesive for skirting boards STALCO PERFECT S-64860.

💡 Tip: With a floating floor such as laminate or vinyl, do not seal the joint between skirting and floor: the floor must be able to move. Fix the skirting to the wall only.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the STALCO PERFECT Mounting Adhesive for Skirting Boards.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view the skirting board adhesive.

🔗 See also: How do I seal a window frame, skirting board or worktop? (Building materials section) and What is the difference between silicone sealant, acrylic sealant and construction adhesive? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure whether adhesive or screws work better on your wall? Sophie is happy to help.

Seal a window frame or skirting board indoors with paintable acrylic sealant, and a worktop or splashback with sanitary silicone sealant. The method is always the same: clean and dry joint, tape along the edges, apply the sealant in one movement and smooth it straight away.

The difference between silicone sealant, acrylic sealant and construction adhesive is explained in "What is the difference between silicone sealant, acrylic sealant and construction adhesive?". For the bathroom: "How do I seal my bathroom neatly?".

What do you need?

• For dry joints indoors (skirting, frames, trims): acrylic sealant, such as Universal acrylic STALCO PERFECT S-64770
• For wet or splash-prone joints (worktop, splashback, sink): sanitary silicone sealant, such as Sanitary silicone Transparent STALCO PERFECT S-64794; for natural stone and sensitive materials a neutral sealant such as Neutral sanitary silicone Transparent STALCO PERFECT S-64800
• A caulking gun, a sealant spatula and masking tape
• Degreaser or methylated spirits and a clean cloth

Step by step:

1. Choose the sealant. Does the joint need painting and will it stay dry? Choose acrylic sealant. Will water get to it or must the joint stay flexible? Choose silicone sealant. Silicone sealant cannot be painted over.
2. Remove old sealant and make the joint clean, grease-free and dry (see "How do I remove old sealant and sealant residue?").
3. Fill wide or deep joints first with a backer rod (foam cord) so the sealant layer is not too thick.
4. Mask the edges with tape.
5. Cut the nozzle at an angle slightly smaller than the joint and apply the sealant in one smooth movement.
6. Smooth the sealant. Smooth acrylic sealant with a damp spatula or finger; silicone sealant with a sealant spatula and a mist of soapy water.
7. Remove the tape straight away.
8. Let the sealant cure. Acrylic sealant can be painted once dry; the time is stated in the specifications.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for application temperature, skin formation time, curing time and suitable substrates. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Universal acrylic STALCO PERFECT S-64770.

💡 Tip: Do not seal an exterior frame with interior sealant: outdoor joints need a sealant that can withstand weather and UV. Check in the specifications whether the sealant is suitable for outdoor use.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the STALCO PERFECT fast-drying acrylic sealant.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our acrylic sealant.

🔗 See also: How do I fit skirting boards? (Building materials section) and What is the difference between silicone sealant, acrylic sealant and construction adhesive? (Building materials section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure which sealant suits your joint? Sophie is happy to help.

Hang a mirror with screws and plugs or with the brackets supplied; without drilling, you can use special mirror adhesive on a flat, clean and sound surface. Have a mirror with lighting connected by a registered electrician.

What do you need?

• A mirror or mirror cabinet
• With drilling: a detector such as the Multifunction wall detector WDP100M, masonry or tile drill bits and plugs and screws or plasterboard fixings
• Without drilling: mirror adhesive, such as Mirror glue STALCO PERFECT S-64857, and a caulking gun
• A spirit level, masking tape and a pencil

With drilling:

1. Decide on the height and mark the fixing points level.
2. Check with a detector that there are no pipes or cables.
3. Drill the holes with tape on the tile and without hammer action through the tile (see "How do I cut or drill tiles?").
4. Fit plugs and brackets that suit the wall and the weight of the mirror.
5. Hang the mirror and check that it is level.

Without drilling, with mirror adhesive:

1. Check the surface. It must be flat, clean, dry and sound. Adhesive does not bond well to loose paint, wallpaper or a weak plaster layer.
2. Use special mirror adhesive. Ordinary sealant or construction adhesive can damage the mirror backing. Check in the specifications whether a primer is needed: for Mirror glue STALCO PERFECT S-64857, for example, the page states that primer should be used on porous materials.
3. Apply the adhesive in vertical beads on the back of the mirror, so that air can circulate and the adhesive can cure.
4. Press the mirror on and support it with tape or battens until the adhesive has cured.
5. Seal the edges if you wish, but only once the adhesive has fully cured.

Technical specifications: always check the product's technical specifications for application temperature, curing time, suitable substrates and whether a primer is needed. On saniso.nl you will find them on the product page, in the 'Description' tab. Is a value missing? Check the packaging or ask us. See, for example, the specifications of Mirror glue STALCO PERFECT S-64857.

Note: have a mirror or mirror cabinet with lighting, a heating element or a socket connected by a registered electrician. Preferably hang a large, heavy mirror mechanically.

💡 Tip: Want to be able to remove the mirror later? Choose screws or brackets: a glued mirror often cannot be removed in one piece.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the STALCO PERFECT mirror adhesive.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our mirrors.

🔗 See also: How do I drill a hole in the wall without hitting pipes or cables? (Tools section) and What lighting should I choose for my bathroom? (Renovation section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Unsure how best to hang your mirror? Sophie is happy to help.

Choose a ladder based on the working height and type of work: a household step ladder for indoor jobs, a double-sided ladder for versatile use and a single ladder for work against a wall or facade.

• Household step ladder: stable and light, for indoor jobs.
• Double-sided ladder: freestanding, for painting and DIY work.
• Single ladder: against a wall or facade, always at the correct angle and properly secured.
• Standard: choose a ladder that meets EN 131, and a professional model for professional use.

💡 Tip: Work out your working height: your reach is roughly the height of the highest rung you can safely stand on plus about 1 metre.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 4×3 multi-purpose aluminium articulated ladder with platform.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all our ladders.

🔗 See also: Do I need fall protection when working at height? (Workwear & safety section) and Where can I find buying guides for tools? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which ladder suits your job? Sophie is happy to help.

On the Saniso blog you will find buying guides for tools, covering measuring tools, hammers, screwdrivers, pliers, chisels and clamps.

• Measuring tools: tape measures and folding rules
• Claw hammer, sledgehammer or soft-face mallet
• Screwdriver sets, bit sets and screw extractors
• Water pump pliers and pipe wrenches: buyer’s guide
• Choosing quick-release clamps

💡 Tip: Browse the Tools & Machinery section for more guides.

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all our tools.

🔗 See also: Cordless or corded tools: which suits me? (Tools section) and Which hand tools do I need in a basic set? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Looking for the right tool for your job? Sophie is happy to help.

Cordless tools have no cable and can be used anywhere; corded tools deliver continuous power and are ideal for heavy, sustained work such as breaking, core drilling and mixing mortar.

• Cordless tools: handy for assembly, screwing and jobs where there is no socket.
• Corded tools: no battery to run flat. For heavy machines that run for long periods.
• One battery platform: the same battery fits several machines on the same platform. At Saniso you will find the Stalco S-Volt 20V platform, for example.
• Battery capacity (Ah): a higher capacity lasts longer but is also heavier.

💡 Tip: Start with a kit that includes a battery and charger, then buy bare tools from the same platform. Read more about the Stalco S-Volt 20V platform.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the DS20-55BL cordless drill driver (STALCO).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our cordless tools.

🔗 See also: Drill driver, impact drill or hammer drill: which drill do I need? (Tools section) and How do I look after my tools and batteries? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Torn between cordless and corded? Sophie is happy to help.

A drill driver is enough for screwing and drilling in wood and metal; for the occasional hole in brick, choose an impact drill, and for concrete and lots of drilling, a hammer drill.

• Drill driver: for screwing and drilling in wood, metal and boards.
• Impact drill: with a hammer action for holes in brick and soft masonry.
• Hammer drill (SDS-plus): drills effortlessly into concrete and hard masonry and can often do light chiselling too.
• Breaker or demolition hammer: for heavy breaking work, such as removing old tiles or a screed.

💡 Tip: Before drilling, use a wall detector to check for pipes and cables in the wall.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 1050 W IDS20-2VS hammer drill (STALCO).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our power tools.

🔗 See also: Which drill bit should I use for concrete, wood, metal or glass? (Tools section) and Cordless or corded tools: which suits me? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which drill suits your job? Sophie is happy to help.

Choose the bit for the material: a masonry bit for brick and concrete, a wood bit for timber, an HSS bit for metal and a glass or diamond bit for glass and tiles.

• Concrete and masonry: masonry bit with a carbide tip. Use SDS-plus bits in a hammer drill.
• Wood: wood bit with a centre point, a flat spade bit for large holes and an auger bit for deep holes.
• Metal: HSS bit. Choose a cobalt bit for stainless steel and a step drill for thin sheet metal.
• Glass and tiles: glass or diamond bit. Drill without hammer action and cool with water.

💡 Tip: Drill metal at low speed and cool with a little cutting oil. Start slowly in wood, glass and tiles so that the bit does not wander.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the S CL ø4–10 mm masonry drill bit set (STALCO).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view all our drill bits.

🔗 See also: Drill driver, impact drill or hammer drill: which drill do I need? (Tools section) and How do I drill a hole in the wall without hitting pipes or cables? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which drill bit do you need? Sophie is happy to help.

For long, straight cuts in timber and boards, choose a circular saw; for curves and cut-outs, a jigsaw; for demolition, a reciprocating saw; and for precise plunge cuts, a multi-tool.

• Circular saw: fast and straight, for boards, beams and floorboards.
• Jigsaw: for curves, cut-outs and holes in worktops or boards.
• Reciprocating saw: for demolition and cutting through nailed timber, pipes and profiles.
• Multi-tool: for plunge cuts, such as shortening a door frame or making a cut-out in plasterboard.
• Saw blade: choose the blade for the material, such as wood, metal or insulation.

💡 Tip: More teeth give a fine, clean cut; fewer teeth cut faster but rougher. Always wear eye and hearing protection.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the 710 W JSS85VS jigsaw (STALCO).

➡️ Next step: Click here to view our saws and blades.

🔗 See also: How do I cut wood straight and without splintering? (Tools section) and Which disc should I use on an angle grinder? (Tools section).

💬 Contact: Click here to contact us.

Which saw suits your job? Sophie is happy to help.

Choose the disc for the material: a diamond disc for stone, concrete and tiles, a cutting disc for metal, and a flap disc or wire brush for sanding and removing rust.

• Diamond disc: a segmented disc for concrete and stone, a turbo disc for fast all-round work and a continuous-rim disc for a clean cut in tiles.
• Metal: a thin cutting disc for cutting through and a thick grinding disc for smoothing welds and edges.
• Sanding and rust removal: a flap disc in the right grit, or a wire brush for rust and old paint.
• Size: the disc diameter and bore must match your grinder.
• Safety: always use the guard, check the maximum speed on the disc and wear safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves and a dust mask.

💡 Tip: Let the disc do the work and don't press too hard. Never use a disc that is damaged or too old.

🛒 Example from our webshop: Click here to view the ø125 mm diamond blade for ceramics (STALCO PERFECT).