How to grout tiles: step-by-step DIY guide

on Nov 12, 2026

in Tiles & Flooring, DIY Guides & Building Tips

How to grout tiles: step-by-step DIY guide

Your tiles are fixed and the adhesive has cured. Now comes the step that really finishes your tiling: grouting. A neat, full joint does more than look good. It protects the tile edges and makes the surface easier to keep clean. In this guide you will read how to prepare the joints, mix the grout, apply it, sponge it off and finish it. With a list of what you need, common mistakes and the key safety tips.

Read this article in Dutch as well: Hoe moet je tegels voegen? Stappenplan voor doe-het-zelvers.

👷 Grouting is a job a handy DIYer can do well. For a large floor, a walk-in shower, natural stone, underfloor heating or epoxy grout, or if you are unsure about the substrate, call in a professional tiler. Their craftsmanship and experience with materials and details cannot be replaced on this kind of work.

When can you start grouting?

Only start once the tile adhesive has cured enough. How long that takes is stated on the adhesive packaging and depends on temperature, moisture and the substrate. If tiles still move or a tile gives when you press it, wait longer. Just finished tiling? Also see our blog on tiling a wall or our blog on tiling a floor.

Which grout should you choose?

For most walls and floors in and around the house, a cementitious grout will do. Kerakoll Kerakoll Fugalite Color grout and Kerakoll Fugabella Color grout are popular choices, each with its own properties. Read the difference in our blog on choosing between Fugalite and Fugabella and in our blog on choosing grout: cementitious or epoxy. Unsure about the colour? Read our blog on choosing the right grout colour. Always check the packaging for the joint width and application the grout is suitable for.

What do you need?

Materials

Grout that suits your tile and joint width, such as Kerakoll Fugalite Color grout or Kerakoll Fugabella Color grout.
sanitary silicone sealant and a sealant gun for corners and junctions.
Optionally Fila Deterdek Pro cement haze remover to remove cement haze afterwards, following the instructions on the packaging.

Tools

A Raimondi joint scraper or multifunctional scraper to remove adhesive residue from the joints.
A 12-litre bucket or construction bucket, a cordless drill driver and a mixing paddle for finishing compounds for mixing.
A grout spreader, grouting float or ABS rubber float to work the grout in.
An ABS sponge float or Raimondi floor sponge and clean water for sponging off.
A 10 mm jointing iron to tool the joints neatly.

Personal protective equipment

Wear work gloves with nitrile coating, safety goggles and, on a floor, knee pads. When mixing powder, wear an FFP2 dust mask.

Step-by-step: how do you grout tiles?

Check the tiles. Press a few tiles. Is everything firm and has the adhesive cured according to the packaging? Then you can continue.
Clean the joints. Remove adhesive residue and tile spacers from the joints with the joint scraper. The joint must be clear over its full depth, otherwise it will be too thin and crumble later. Vacuum up dust and grit.
Leave corners and junctions open. Internal corners, the junction with the bath, shower tray or floor and edges along frames are not grouted with mortar. They get sealant later, because these spots can move.
Dampen the tiles lightly. Very absorbent tiles or a warm room can dry the grout out too quickly. Follow the manufacturer instructions; usually lightly damp is enough, never wet.
Mix the grout. Pour the amount of water stated on the packaging into a clean bucket, add the powder and mix with the paddle at low speed until smooth and free of lumps. Do not mix more than you can use within the working time stated on the packaging. Wear a dust mask while doing this.
Work the grout in. Apply the grout with the spreader or rubber float. Work diagonally across the joints, so you fill the joint without pulling the grout back out. Press firmly so the joint is full and free of air bubbles. Work in small areas.
Remove the excess. Hold the float almost upright and pull it diagonally across the tiles. This leaves little grout on the tile surface.
Sponge off at the right moment. Wait until the grout starts to set. If you touch the joint and nothing sticks to your finger, you can usually begin. Sponge diagonally across the tiles with a well wrung-out sponge and rinse it often in clean water.
Tool the joints. For a neat, slightly recessed profile, run the jointing iron along the joint. Fill small holes straight away.
Remove the haze. After curing, a thin grey haze often remains. Wipe it off with a dry cloth or use a cement haze remover according to the packaging. Test on an inconspicuous spot first. More tips in our blog on cleaning while tiling.
Seal the corners. Once the grout has cured, seal the corners and junctions with sanitary sealant. How to do that neatly is explained in our blog on resealing a bathroom with new silicone.
Let the grout cure undisturbed. Only walk on the floor or use the shower after the time stated on the grout packaging.

Hand in a yellow glove wiping white wall tiles with a damp sponge

What mistakes are often made?

Grouting too early. If the adhesive has not cured, tiles can shift and joints can crack.
Not cleaning the joints. Adhesive residue leaves the joint too thin, so it crumbles.
Mixing or sponging too wet. Too much water weakens the joint and can cause colour differences.
Mixing too much at once. Grout that has started to set should not be remixed with extra water.
Grouting corners instead of sealing them. A rigid joint in a spot that moves will crack sooner or later.
Leaving the haze. The longer you wait, the harder cement haze is to remove.

💡 💡 Do a test patch on an offcut or an inconspicuous spot first. That shows you how the colour looks once dry and how quickly the grout sets at your temperature. After that you know exactly when to start sponging.

How do you work safely?

Grout contains cement. Wet grout can irritate the skin and is dangerous in the eyes. Always wear gloves and safety goggles. Mixing powder releases fine dust: wear an FFP2 dust mask and ventilate the room. On a floor, use knee pads. Rinse splashes off your skin with water straight away. You will find all personal protective equipment in our workwear and PPE range, see the link at the bottom of this article.

Frequently asked questions

How long should I wait to grout after tiling?

That depends on the tile adhesive, the temperature and the substrate. The correct waiting time is on the adhesive packaging. If a tile is not firm yet, wait longer.

Should I grout the corners too?

No. Seal internal corners and junctions with the bath, shower tray, floor or frame with sanitary sealant. Movement can occur there and a rigid joint would crack.

When do I sponge off the grout?

As soon as the grout starts to set. A good test: press the joint gently with your finger. If nothing sticks, you can start with a well wrung-out sponge.

Can I grout over old joints?

Grout applied over an old joint bonds poorly. Rake out the old joint deep enough first. Also read our blog on cleaning and renewing discoloured grout.

How do I get cement haze off the tiles?

Often a dry cloth works shortly after curing. If not, use a cement haze remover according to the packaging and test on an inconspicuous spot first.

How do I maintain the joints afterwards?

Clean the joints regularly with a suitable cleaner, such as FILA Fuganet grout cleaner, and dry the shower wall after use. That keeps them looking good for longer.