How to repair broken wall or floor tiles

A tile that cracks under a dropped pan, a tile that sounds hollow or a corner that has chipped off: it happens in every kitchen and bathroom. A broken tile is not only unsightly, it also lets water through to the substrate. Fortunately, you do not have to retile the whole wall or floor straight away. With patience and the right tools you can replace one or a few tiles yourself. In this blog you will read how to do that without damaging the surrounding tiles.

👷 Calling in a professional is never superfluous. If many tiles are cracked, large areas sound hollow or you see cracks running through several tiles, the problem is often in the substrate. Have that assessed by a tiler. In a shower, where water can get behind the tiles, it is also wise to have a professional check the waterproofing.

First: do you have a spare tile?

The trickiest part of a tile repair is often finding a matching tile. First look in the shed, the attic or the garage: many people keep a box of spare tiles after tiling. If you do not have one, take a piece of the broken tile with you when looking for a replacement, so you can compare colour, size and thickness.

💡 If you cannot find exactly the same tile, replace a few tiles in a logical place with a deliberate contrasting tile, for example in a row or as a pattern. That often looks better than a tile that is almost, but not quite, the same.

What do you need?

Removing

• A Raimondi joint scraper to remove the grout around the broken tile.
• A cordless drill driver with a glass and tile drill bit set to drill a few holes in the broken tile.
• A 25 mm flat chisel and a claw hammer to tap the tile loose in pieces.
• A multifunctional scraper to remove old adhesive from the substrate.
• A Raimondi suction cup with pressure gauge to carefully lift out a loose tile that is still whole.

Fitting and grouting

• Kerakoll H40 Gel tile adhesive and a Raimondi notched trowel to fix the new tile.
• A Raimondi Kompass tile cutter if the new tile needs to be cut to size.
• adjustable 4 mm tile spacers to keep the joint width even.
• Kerakoll Fugabella Color grout or another grout in the right colour, with a grouting float.
• A ABS sponge float and an 12-litre bucket of clean water to wash the tile.
• sanitary silicone sealant and a sealant gun for the joint in corners and along the bath or shower tray.

Help with choosing the grout colour can be found in our blog on choosing the right grout colour.

Personal protective equipment

• safety goggles. Tile shards fly off hard and sharp.
• cut-resistant gloves for picking up sharp shards.
• An FFP2 dust mask when raking out grout and drilling into tiles.
• knee pads when working on a floor.
• masking film and a construction vacuum cleaner to keep the room clean.

Step 1: remove the grout around the tile

Use the joint scraper to remove all the grout around the broken tile, down to the adhesive. Work calmly and keep the tool in line with the joint, so you do not slip onto the neighbouring tiles. The better the grout is removed, the less chance that the neighbouring tiles crack when you take out the broken one.

💡 Tape off the edges of the neighbouring tiles with strong tape. If you do slip, the tape protects the glaze.

Step 2: take out the broken tile

Always work from the middle of the tile outwards, never from the edge:

1. Drill a few holes in the middle of the tile with the tile drill bit. Start without hammer action and at low speed, so the bit does not wander.
2. Place the chisel in one of the holes or in a crack and tap it gently with the hammer. The tile will then break into pieces.
3. Lever the pieces out, always towards the middle. Never put the chisel against the edge of a neighbouring tile.

⚠️ Always wear safety goggles during this step. Shards can fly off hard even when tapping gently. Pick up the shards with cut-resistant gloves.

If the tile is whole but loose or hollow, try lifting it out with the suction cup after raking out the grout. That way you can sometimes reuse it.

Step 3: clean and level the substrate

Scrape away the old adhesive with the multifunctional scraper or the chisel, so the new tile will not sit higher than the rest. Work carefully, especially on a wall with plasterboard or a waterproof membrane underneath: you must not chisel through it. Vacuum the dust and check that the substrate is dry and firm.

⚠️ Do you see in a shower or bathroom that the substrate is wet, soft or damaged, or have you hit the waterproofing? Then stop and have a tiler repair the substrate and the waterproofing. Otherwise water will run behind the new tile.

Step 4: fit the new tile

1. First place the new tile dry in the gap to check that it fits. If it needs to be smaller, cut it to size with the tile cutter.
2. Apply tile adhesive to the substrate and comb it with the notched trowel. Also spread a thin layer on the back of the tile, so it is fully bedded in the adhesive.
3. Press the tile in with a slight twisting movement and put tile spacers in the joints.
4. Check that the tile is level with the neighbouring tiles. Place a straight edge or a spirit level across the tiles and press the tile down, or take it out and adjust the amount of adhesive.
5. Remove adhesive residue from the joints and the glaze before the adhesive hardens.

Let the adhesive cure according to the instructions on the packaging. Do not walk on a floor tile during that time. If you want to know more about fixing and aligning tiles, read our blog on tiling a wall.

Step 5: grout the tile

Remove the tile spacers and mix the grout according to the packaging. Press the grout diagonally into the joints with the grouting float, so the joints are well filled. After a short wait, wash the tile with a damp, well wrung-out sponge, also diagonally. Let the grout dry and then polish off the cement haze with a dry cloth. In corners and along the bath, shower tray or worktop you use sealant instead of grout. You can read how to do that neatly in our blog on resealing a bathroom with new silicone.

Common mistakes

• Not removing all the grout, so the neighbouring tiles break as well.
• Levering from the edge instead of working from the middle.
• Too little adhesive under the new tile, so it sounds hollow and breaks again later.
• Leaving old adhesive in place, so the new tile sits higher.
• Chiselling through the waterproofing in a shower and not having it repaired.

Working safely

Always wear safety goggles when raking out, drilling and chiselling. Tile shards are razor-sharp: pick them up with cut-resistant gloves and dispose of them in a sturdy bucket or box. Drilling and raking out create fine dust. Wear an FFP2 dust mask, vacuum the dust and ventilate the room. If you are working near sockets or pipes, first check where they run and switch off the power if in doubt. Leave work on electrics or water pipes to a qualified installer.

Frequently asked questions

Can I leave a cracked tile in place and repair it with filler?

A hairline crack in a wall tile in a dry area can be filled temporarily, but it will remain visible. In a shower or on a floor it is better to replace a cracked tile, so no water gets underneath and the crack does not grow.

Why does a tile sound hollow?

Usually there is too little adhesive under the tile or the adhesive has come loose. A hollow tile breaks more easily. If many tiles sound hollow, have a tiler take a look.

How long should I wait before walking on a new floor tile?

That depends on the tile adhesive. Always follow the instructions on the packaging and only walk on the tile once both the adhesive and the grout have cured sufficiently.

Can I replace a tile above the edge of the bath or in the shower?

Yes, but be extra careful with the waterproofing behind the tiles. If you are unsure whether it is still intact, call in a tiler.

Where can you find everything for this job?

At Saniso, the online store for DIYers and professionals, you will find tools, materials and personal protective equipment for your job.

• Browse our construction tools and our workwear and safety.
• Create a customer account and order easily.
• Working on a bigger project or want to hand over the job? Request a project quote.
• Book a showroom visit, at least 24 hours in advance.
• Not sure which material suits your job? Get in touch with us.

In doubt about the approach? Feel free to call in a professional.

Saniso – Build your home with Saniso.

Read also: How to tile a floor: step-by-step DIY guide and How to clean, remove and renew discoloured grout

Read also: How to transport tiles and slabs safely