How to repair a torn-out plug hole

Yesterday you hung heavy items on the wall. But what do you do if a plug has already torn out, for example from an old shelf, a coat rack or a curtain rail? Then there is a hole in the wall that is too big and ragged, a new plug no longer grips and the screw just spins. This Sunday you tackle that. In this blog you will read why plugs tear out, which solution suits your wall and how to make the old hole disappear neatly.

👷 Calling in a professional is never unnecessary. Is it something heavy, such as kitchen cabinets, a TV bracket, a washbasin or a full bookcase, or a fixing in the ceiling, or is the wall crumbling around the hole? Then leave the repair to a professional. A fixing that comes loose again can injure someone.

Why does a plug tear out?

• The wrong plug for the wall. A standard plug in plasterboard or in a hollow brick has too little grip.
• The hole is too big. The drill bit was too thick, or the hole was widened by drilling with hammer action in soft or porous stone.
• The wrong spot. A hole in a mortar joint, close to a corner or too close to another hole crumbles more easily.
• The screw is too thin or too short. The plug then does not expand properly and turns with the screw.
• Too much or the wrong kind of load. A coat rack or shelf that pulls forward acts as a lever and slowly pulls the plug loose.

Which solution suits your wall?

What do you need?

• A multifunction wall detector to avoid pipes and cables in the wall before drilling.
• A cordless drill driver for plasterboard and for driving screws, and for brick and concrete an SDS-plus rotary hammer with an SDS-plus concrete drill bit.
• Plugs that suit the wall: a universal expansion plug, a universal 10 mm expansion plug for a hole that has to go one size up, a plasterboard plug or a hollow wall anchor with screw for plasterboard.
• Matching screws, for example screws for wood and chipboard. The plug packaging tells you which screw diameter and length to use.
• A drill hole cleaning brush and a construction vacuum cleaner to get the hole free of dust.
• Filler: Speedline Filler 45HR for deep holes and lightweight filler for the final smooth layer.
• A Japanese filling knife and a putty knife with aluminium blade to apply the filler.
• A sanding block grit 120 to sand smooth and an acrylic brush to touch up the paint.
• A carpenter pencil and a tape measure with auto-lock to mark the new spot.

Step-by-step plan

Step 1: remove the old plug

First take everything off the wall and remove the screw. If the plug is loose, pull it out. If it is still half stuck, turn the screw a few turns back into the plug and pull it straight out with pliers. Do not lever it sideways, as that breaks off more of the wall.

Step 2: assess and clean the hole

Look at the drilling dust and the edge of the hole. Red or orange dust points to brick, grey dust to concrete, and white, soft material to plasterboard, aerated concrete or sand-lime brick. Brush out the hole with the drill hole cleaning brush and vacuum the dust away. A clean hole is needed for the filler to bond well.

Step 3: choose your solution

1. A new spot (most reliable). Can the item move a few centimetres? Then fill the old hole (step 4) and drill at least 3 to 5 cm away in sound material. Mark the spot with a carpenter pencil and a tape measure with auto-lock; read more about accurate measuring in our blog on tape measures and measuring tools.
2. The same spot, one size up. Does it really have to go in the same spot, and is the stone around it still solid? Then drill one size up, for example from 8 to 10 mm, and use a plug and screw that match.
3. Plasterboard. For a small hole, place a plasterboard plug a little way from the old hole. For a larger hole, use a hollow wall anchor with screw, which opens out behind the board. For heavy items on plasterboard, call in a professional.

⚠️ Filler is not a fixing. A plug set in fresh filler will hold only something very light at most. For anything with weight, choose a new spot or a bigger plug in sound material.

Step 4: fill the old hole

1. Dampen or prime a very absorbent surface as described on the filler packaging.
2. Fill a deep hole in layers with Speedline Filler 45HR. Press the filler in firmly with the Japanese filling knife so that no air stays trapped. Let each layer harden as stated on the packaging.
3. Finish the final layer with lightweight filler and the putty knife with aluminium blade. Leave it slightly proud of the wall, as filler can sink a little as it dries.
4. Once dry, sand it flush with the sanding block grit 120 and wipe off the dust.
5. Touch up the spot with the acrylic brush. You will find more tips in our blog on putty knives, sanding tools and scrapers and our blog on painting a wall.

Step 5: drill again and hang

Check the new spot with the multifunction wall detector. In soft or porous stone, drill without hammer action so the hole does not become too big again. Push the plug in until it is flush with the wall, drive in the screw and load the item carefully at first. If the screw spins or the plug turns with it, stop and choose another solution.

Read also: How to hang heavy items on a wall: step-by-step DIY guide

Working safely

• Wear safety goggles against drilling dust and splinters, and work gloves with nitrile coating when drilling and filling. Read more about good gloves in our buying guide for work gloves.
• Drilling dust from concrete and stone can contain fine quartz dust, and sanding also releases fine dust. So wear an FFP2 dust mask and vacuum up the dust straight away with the construction vacuum cleaner.
• A rotary hammer is loud: wear earplugs. Also read our blog on hearing protection.
• Use the multifunction wall detector before every new hole, only to avoid pipes and cables. Do not drill directly above, below or next to switches and sockets, or in line with pipes.
• If you do hit a pipe or cable, stop immediately and call in a qualified installer. Work on electrics, gas and water is not part of this job.

When should you call in a professional?

Calling in a professional is never unnecessary. Certainly do so in these situations:

• It involves heavy items, such as kitchen cabinets, a TV bracket, a washbasin or a water heater.
• The fixing is in the ceiling or above a place where people walk or sit.
• The wall crumbles around the hole, or the plug keeps tearing out.
• You are not sure what the wall is made of, or the wall detector shows a pipe or cable.
• Something heavy has to hang on plasterboard and you do not know where the studs are.

A professional sees at once which fixing the wall can take and makes sure it is secured properly first time.

Frequently asked questions

Can I glue a plug in or set it in filler?

Only for something very light, such as a card or a small frame. Filler and glue are not made to carry weight. For anything heavier, drill in a new spot or one size up in sound material.

How far should the new hole be from the old one?

Keep at least 3 to 5 cm away, and more in soft stone or around a large crumbled hole. That way you drill into sound material and not into the filler.

How long does the filler need to dry?

That depends on the product and the depth of the hole. Follow the drying time on the packaging and, for deep holes, wait until each layer has fully hardened before sanding or painting.

Why does my screw keep spinning?

Usually the hole is too big for the plug, or the screw is too thin. Choose a screw that matches the plug, or drill one size up with a matching plug. If that does not help, have a professional take a look.

Which plug should I use in plasterboard?

A standard plug grips poorly in plasterboard. Use a plasterboard plug for light items and a hollow wall anchor with screw for a little more weight. For heavy items, have a professional fix them into the studs behind the board.

Where can you find everything for this job?

At Saniso, the online store for DIYers and professionals, you will find tools, materials and personal protective equipment for your job.

• Browse our construction tools and our workwear and safety.
• Create a customer account and order easily.
• Working on a bigger project or want to hand over the job? Request a project quote.
• Book a showroom visit, at least 24 hours in advance.
• Not sure which material suits your job? Get in touch with us.

In doubt about the approach? Feel free to call in a professional.

Saniso – Build your home with Saniso.