How to fix squeaky door hinges and fit a door stop

Yesterday you adjusted the door handle and the strike plate. Today you finish the door job. A door that squeaks with every movement is especially irritating late in the evening and early in the morning. And a door that slams into the wall leaves a dent or a hole where the handle hits it. In this blog you will read how to lubricate a squeaky hinge, tighten loose hinge screws and fit a door stop that stops the door in time.

👷 Calling in a professional is never unnecessary. Is it a heavy external door, a fire door, torn-out hinges or a floor with underfloor heating where you want to fix a stop? Then leave it to a professional.

Why does a hinge squeak?

• Dry hinge pin. The lubricant has dried out over the years and metal rubs on metal.
• Dirt and rust. Dust and paint residue between the pin and the hinge cause creaking.
• Loose screws. A hinge that moves creaks and lets the door drop.
• The door hangs crooked. That puts strain on the hinges. How to fix that is explained in our blog on fixing a sticking door.

Which hinge do you have?

What do you need?

• A screwdriver set to tighten hinge screws.
• A claw hammer and a 300 mm punch to tap out a loose hinge pin.
• silicone spray to lubricate and a microfibre cloth to wipe away dirt and excess spray.
• A sanding block grit 220 to lightly sand rust and dirt off the pin.
• A cordless drill driver to pre-drill and a 6 mm plug with wood screw to fix a door stop to the wall.
• A carpenter pencil and a tape measure with auto-lock to mark the position of the stop.
• A multifunction wall detector to avoid pipes and cables before drilling.
• A rechargeable LED work lamp to see clearly what is happening at the hinges. Also read our blog on work lights.
• PPE: work gloves with nitrile coating, safety goggles and EVA foam knee pads.

Step-by-step plan

Step 1: find the squeaky hinge

Move the door slowly open and closed and listen to where the sound comes from. Often only one hinge squeaks. Use the rechargeable LED work lamp to check for paint residue, rust or dirt on the pin and whether the hinges are firmly fixed.

Step 2: tighten loose hinge screws

Tighten all the screws in the hinges with the screwdriver set. Keep the door half open and support it at the handle side. If a screw spins in the frame, our blog on fixing a sticking door explains how to solve that. If a hinge does not sit properly in its recess, read more in our blog on cutting hinge recesses in an interior door. You will find more about the right screwdriver in our blog on screwdrivers, bit sets and screw extractors.

Step 3: lubricate the hinge

1. Lift-off hinge. Open the door halfway and lift it straight up off the hinges with two people. Lay it on a soft surface. Wipe the pins clean with the microfibre cloth, lightly sand off rust with the sanding block grit 220 and spray a thin layer of silicone spray onto the pin. Hang the door back.
2. Hinge with a loose pin. Close the door so it rests in the frame. Tap the pin upwards from below with the 300 mm punch and the claw hammer. Clean the pin, lubricate it lightly and put it back. Do this one hinge at a time.
3. Hinge with a fixed pin. Spray a little silicone spray on top of the hinge and into the seam. Move the door back and forth a few times so the spray works its way in.

Always wipe off the excess with the microfibre cloth. Too much lubricant attracts dust and leaves marks on the door and the floor.

⚠️ On a door with loose pins, never remove all the pins at once. The door can then fall out of the frame in one go. An interior door is heavier than you think.

Step 4: choose a door stop and the right position

A door stop makes sure the door stops before the handle hits the wall. There are roughly three types:

• Wall-mounted stop. On the wall at handle height. Easy to fit and not in the way.
• Skirting stop. In the skirting board, at the bottom of the wall. The bottom of the door stops against it.
• Floor stop. On the floor behind the door. Do not place it in a walkway, so nobody trips over it.

Open the door until the handle almost touches the wall. Leave a few centimetres of space and mark the position of the stop with the carpenter pencil. If you fit a wall-mounted stop, measure the height of the handle with the tape measure with auto-lock.

Step 5: fit the door stop

1. Check the spot in the wall with the multifunction wall detector. Do not drill directly below or next to a switch or socket.
2. Pre-drill with the cordless drill driver, put a 6 mm plug with wood screw in the hole and screw the stop in place.
3. Fix a floor stop on a wooden floor with a screw in a pre-drilled hole. Do not drill into a tiled floor or a floor with underfloor heating yourself. Choose a wall-mounted or skirting stop instead, or leave it to a professional.
4. Test that the door stops well before the wall and that the stop is firmly fixed.

Is there already a dent or hole in the wall where the handle hit it? Then read our blog on touching up damaged walls.

Working safely

• Wear safety goggles when spraying, sanding and drilling, and work gloves with nitrile coating against sharp edges and splinters. Read more about work gloves in our buying guide for work gloves.
• Use EVA foam knee pads when you work on the floor at the bottom hinge or a floor stop.
• Always lift a door with two people, with a straight back and lifting from your knees.
• Use the multifunction wall detector before every hole, only to avoid pipes and cables. If you do hit a pipe or cable, stop immediately and call in a qualified installer. Work on electrics, gas and water is not part of this job.
• Never drill into a floor with underfloor heating yourself.
• Use the spray in a ventilated room and keep it away from fire or heat.

When should you call in a professional?

Calling in a professional is never unnecessary. Certainly do so in these situations:

• It is a heavy external door, a glass door or a fire door.
• The hinges are torn out or the frame is damaged.
• The door keeps hanging crooked or sticking, even when the screws are tight.
• You want to fix a stop in a tiled floor or a floor with underfloor heating.

A professional rehangs the door properly and makes sure everything is fixed firmly and safely.

Frequently asked questions

Which lubricant is best for a squeaky hinge?

A thin layer of silicone spray works well and attracts little dirt. Always wipe off the excess. Thick grease often leaves marks and collects dust.

How often should I lubricate hinges?

Once a year is usually enough, or as soon as a hinge starts to squeak. A door that is used a lot may need it more often.

My door still squeaks after lubricating. What now?

Check that the hinge screws are tight and that the door hangs straight. A door that hangs crooked often keeps creaking. Then read our blog on fixing a sticking door. If that does not help, have a professional take a look.

Where is the best place for a door stop?

At the point where the door stops a few centimetres before the wall. A wall-mounted stop at handle height or a skirting stop is usually the safest, because nobody can trip over it.

Can I drill a door stop into a tiled floor?

That calls for caution. Tiles can crack, and there may be pipes or underfloor heating under the floor. Preferably choose a wall-mounted or skirting stop, or have a professional fit the stop.

Read also: How to adjust a door handle and strike plate

Where can you find everything for this job?

At Saniso, the online store for DIYers and professionals, you will find tools, materials and personal protective equipment for your job.

• Browse our construction tools and our workwear and safety.
• Create a customer account and order easily.
• Working on a bigger project or want to hand over the job? Request a project quote.
• Book a showroom visit, at least 24 hours in advance.
• Not sure which material suits your job? Get in touch with us.

In doubt about the approach? Feel free to call in a professional.

Saniso – Build your home with Saniso.