How to build a small brick wall: step-by-step DIY guide

A small brick wall can edge a border, form a raised planter or make a neat divide next to the patio. In this guide you will learn how to lay a low freestanding brick wall: from foundation and setting out to mortar, the first course, running bond, pointing and curing. Always follow the instructions on the packaging.

👷 Calling in a professional is never unnecessary. Is it a load-bearing wall, a high wall, a wall along the property boundary, doubt about the foundation or ground you do not know? Always call in a bricklayer or contractor. Check with your local authority whether any rules apply. This blog is about a low, non-load-bearing wall.

Why does bricklaying start with the base?

Brickwork is only as strong as the ground it stands on. On soft or uneven soil a wall soon leans or cracks. First lay a firm, frost-resistant foundation or a well-compacted sand-cement bed. Read more about quantities in our blog on sand cement. Clear roots and loose soil before you start.

What do you need?

Materials

• Bricks or masonry units that suit your job (colour, size, frost resistance).
• Bricklaying mortar or ready-mixed bagged mortar; follow the instructions on the packaging.
• Sand and cement or a sand-cement mix for the foundation, as your situation requires.
• A mason line and two sturdy profiles or battens.

Tools

• A bricklaying or plastering trowel and a bricklayer scoop for the mortar.
• A aluminium jointing trowel to finish the joints.
• A 60 cm spirit level and preferably a 120 cm spirit level.
• A tape measure with auto-lock and a 2 m wooden folding rule; more about measuring in our blog on tape measures and measuring tools.
• A mason pencil to mark courses and cuts.
• A construction bucket or 60-litre rectangular construction tub and a mixer paddle for heavy mortars to mix mortar.
• A sand shovel around the foundation.
• A rubber mallet to tap bricks gently.
• A brick hammer and a chisel to cut bricks (always with PPE).

Personal protective equipment

See Working safely below. Do not start without proper PPE.

How do you set out the wall?

1. Decide place and height. Mark start and end with pegs.
2. Tension the mason line along two level profiles. Every brick follows that line.
3. Check square and level with the 60 cm spirit level (diagonals or 3-4-5 method).
4. Lay the foundation, compact well and allow enough curing per the packaging before you lay bricks.

How do you mix mortar?

Mix according to the packaging: right water quantity, mixing time and working time. Mortar that is too wet sags out of the joints; mortar that is too dry bonds poorly. Do not mix more than you can use within the open time. Use a clean 60-litre rectangular construction tub or construction bucket with a mixer paddle for heavy mortars or bricklayer scoop.

How do you lay the first course level?

The first course decides whether the rest stays straight. Spread a mortar bed with the bricklaying or plastering trowel, lay the first brick, tap lightly with the rubber mallet and check at once with the 60 cm spirit level. Keep perp joints even and the mason line tight. Take your time: a level start saves correction later.

What is running bond?

In a running bond each course is offset by half a brick, so perp joints do not sit on top of each other. That makes the wall stronger and calmer to look at. Cut starter and end bricks with the brick hammer and chisel, or use matching half-bricks. Work course by course: mortar bed, set the brick, check level and line, trim excess mortar.

💡 Dry-lay a trial course without mortar first. Then you see whether the length works out and where you need to cut. Photograph the course with your phone.

How do you finish the joints?

Once the mortar has stiffened enough to work (follow the packaging), finish the joints with the aluminium jointing trowel. Choose one joint profile and keep it consistent along the whole wall. Brush away loose grains. Do not wash down too early or too wet: that pulls cement haze onto the brick. If you later plan plastering, also read our blog on plastering a wall.

How do you protect the work while it cures?

Fresh mortar dislikes strong sun, heavy rain or frost. Protect the wall for the first days against driving rain. In frost risk, wait or follow the winter guidance on the packaging. Let the work cure before you lean on it or place planters against it. Exact curing times are on the packaging.

What mistakes do you make quickly?

• No foundation, or too weak a foundation.
• First course not level, then correcting with thicker joints.
• Slack mason line, so the wall becomes hollow or bulging.
• Mortar too wet or too dry, or mixing too much at once.
• Perp joints stacked instead of a running bond.
• Hitting hard with a steel hammer until pieces break off.
• Pointing too early or too wet.
• Trying to build a high or load-bearing wall yourself.

How do you work safely?

• Hands: work gloves with nitrile coating; mortar is alkaline.
• Eyes: safety goggles against splashes and chips.
• Knees: knee pads when you work on the ground a lot.
• Feet: low S3S safety shoe protect your toes.
• Dust: when sawing or grinding, wear an FFP2 dust mask.

Read more about working safely in our blog on safe working on the construction site. You will find workwear and PPE in the Saniso range (see the CTA below).

⚠️ Preferably saw or grind bricks outdoors. If you are unsure about the cutting method, leave the cutting to a professional.

When do you call in a professional?

• Load-bearing walls, high walls or walls that support something.
• Walls along the property boundary, or if you are not sure what is allowed.
• Doubt about foundation, groundwater or frost-sensitive soil.
• Long walls, curves or decorative bonds that need experience.

A bricklayer is never unnecessary in those cases. If you also want a path around the wall, read our blog on laying a garden path.

Frequently asked questions

Can I build a small garden wall myself?

Yes, a low, non-load-bearing wall is doable for many DIYers if the foundation is right and you work to level. If in doubt, call in a professional.

Which mortar should I use?

A bricklaying mortar or bagged mortar that suits your brick type and outdoor use. Always follow the instructions on the packaging.

How thick should the joints be?

Keep joint thickness even and follow what suits your brick size and the mortar manufacturer's guidance.

May I lay bricks in frost or rain?

In frost and heavy rain fresh work is vulnerable. Wait for suitable weather or follow the weather guidance on the packaging.

Do I need a permit?

Check with your local authority whether any rules apply, especially near boundaries or for structural walls. This blog makes no legal claims.

How do I avoid cement haze on the bricks?

Work cleanly, trim excess mortar in time and do not wash down too early or too wet. Finish joints consistently with the aluminium jointing trowel.

Where can you find everything for this job?

At Saniso, the online store for DIYers and professionals, you will find tools, materials and personal protective equipment for your job.

• Browse our construction tools and our workwear and safety.
• Create a customer account and order easily.
• Working on a bigger project or want to hand over the job? Request a project quote.
• Book a showroom visit, at least 24 hours in advance.
• Not sure which material suits your job? Get in touch with us.

In doubt about the approach? Feel free to call in a professional.

Saniso – Build your home with Saniso.